To lock or not to lock?

[tcdawg]

  There is a thread on GATR that describes each locker style in detail...find it and read it.

here is the Locker info for you to read:

http://www.gatrailriders.com/GTRForums/index.php?topic=10110.msg164950#msg164950

For a DD, I am a fan of a Selectable locker in the rear. 

You can do a auto locker in the front to save quite a bit of money.  As mentioned, won't affect street use.  But...when you are in 4wd, it will be locked when you put power to it.  This can be an issue with steering on tight areas or in other areas where you don't want it locked.

My personal choice for a DD or one that see's the street some would be a selectable locker front and rear. 

ARB, Eaton, Ox   all good choices.

[nezsm]

If you can afford them go with selectable lockers f&r. I have many years experience with ARB Airlockers and the air lines can become a problem if not properly routed or maintained. A leaking air line will cause the locker not to engage or disengage unexpectedly and if your on the gas when locker gets enough psi to reengage you risk major damage. That being said the key is to properly maintain the system, ARB makes a very strong product. I do not have any experience with electric or cable lockers but I have heard great things about them. Toyota has been using Lockers in the Land Cruisers for over 20 years and other manufactures like Nissan and Ford also have an e-locker option. 

If you're on a limited budget and can learn to drive with spooled/welded rear then that is your cheapest route. As others have mentioned this will lead to premature tire wheel as you will dragging a tire in sharp turns and if the road (pavement) is wet the rear will get squirrelly if you have a heavy right foot. I have never run either of these know a lot of people do but not on a daily driven rig and rarely in the front because it makes turning a PITA.

The Lunchbox type locker such as the Lock-Right and EZ Locker are installed inside your carrier replacing all spider gears. I ran a EZ Locker in the rear of a 84 Toyota Pickup with 33"s and it was a learning experience, it makes a loud clicking/popping sound on the street when turning and would lockup unexpectedly. I think that this would a great choice for the front not I wouldn't use one in the rear of a DD rig.

If your budget allows then this would the ideal time to re-gear since the only extra labor involved would be replacing the pinion gear and setting up the new gears. You would also have to break them in by driving at set speeds for a period of time as set by gear manufacture.

In my 4Runner I am running a ARB airlocker in the front and a full Detroit locker in the rear. I did daily drive for a a couple of years without any issues. Having the airlocker in the front allows me to make tight turns on the trail by disengaging the locker, a fully locked front wants to push forward rather then turn.

Lockers a stock rig can make a ton difference, I have seen a stock YJ on 30" street tires with ARB's go places that a non-locked and rear locked Jeeps on 33"s couldn't.

Good Luck


 

[Raisinhead]

I regeared both and locked only my front with arb, then came back to lock the rear with the same later. I understood the increase in labor, but it was the route I wanted to go due to available funds at the time. World of difference off-road, no difference on road.

[Krawler00]

My jeep is no trailer queen and sees the road often. I run a rear detroit (less parts to break, always locked unless turning and damn near bullet proof) and the front is a spartan. If you go with a spartan make sure you get the hardended cross pin. Some I guess did not have it. I have also run aussie front lockers and loved both. But I am a 5 spd so it took some getting used to with the rear detroit and corners, gas... it would damn near snap your neck or break something  //:o//

[kvom]

If your rear axle is a D35 then investing any money at all in it is problematic.    If you can't afford a new rear but still want to regear and lock the front, I'd go with a lunchbox front and leave the rear open.  A Super35 kit is pretty strong but pricy.  That's what Kevin's running.

With a D44 in the rear a selectable is  the way to go in my view for a highway vehicle.  If you can find a Rubicon D44 rear then the install of the small air pump is very simple.  Stock Rubi axles generally have 4.10 gears and are bolt-in for TJs.

[Mortalis5509]

My jeep is no trailer queen and sees the road often. I run a rear detroit (less parts to break, always locked unless turning and damn near bullet proof) and the front is a spartan. If you go with a spartan make sure you get the hardended cross pin. Some I guess did not have it. I have also run aussie front lockers and loved both. But I am a 5 spd so it took some getting used to with the rear detroit and corners, gas... it would damn near snap your neck or break something  //:o//

Only thing about a detriot, they break and usually take out shafts with them. I run one in the front of my race car so that doesnt stop me. The next best thing to a selectable or spool.

[Krawler00]

Have had great luck with detroits. Ran one in my old dana 35 and in my current scout 44. Less parts than a selectable or arb. But I don't have enough HP to break my detroit.

Off Grid Post

[Jango]

My rear axle is a D44 and front is D30 (Its a 2012 jeep wrangler unlimited sport). If I ran across a Rubi front D44 axle for sale how hard is it to switch that axle in. I though rubicons have electric lockers?

I like the idea of putting a lunchbox locker up front. one that  engages with 4wd. So that i could fully understand what a locker can really do for me. And its a cheap way to throw in a locker.

I don't know still kinda iffy if I should just do it right the first time and go selectable arbs front and rear and regear. would 4.10 be the best configuration if my long term was 37's? or should i go lower on the gears

[Big Dave]

'07 & up Rubicon's have electric lockers. I would not run 37's on a Dana 30 unless it was just to the mall. It will break. A JK Dana 44 front would be a direct bolt in but you need to re-gear the rear to 4.11 to match the front. 
I have 4.11's & 35's. I'd go 4.88 or 5.13 for the 37's.   

[DOUG]

Limit your investment and put a lunch box locker in the front.  It will greatly increase your capability to crawl obstacles. 

If you don't like it or want to upgrade, pull it and it will be easy to sell. 

[Raisinhead]

I would not spend the money on Arbs in a Dana 30 especially if you are thinking 37s eventually.

[Jango]

So would it work to just throw in a lunchbox locker in the front axle on the D30?? and yea you're Raisinhead. Should probably throw in bigger axles before I do 37s. And selectable locker.. and gears... and axle shafts.. and more awesome stuff