Georgia Trail Riders Forum
MEMBERS DISCUSSION AREA => General Discussion => Topic started by: Blue J on August 24, 2017, 08:55:45 AM
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I am still on the fence
Planning to regear and add lockers, (Hopefully before Christmas)....for my 3.6 Auto, d30, and staying with 35's will 4.88 or 5.13 serve me better?
I still plan to drive to rides and it does see some Daily Driving (so maintaining 70mph) to the mall and stuff... I tow a landscape trailer with kayaks occasionally but I don't think either of these gearing options will affect towing...
I have seen the charts but I might as well be looking at an abstract painting...they really do not make a lot of sense. To me.
Thoughts?
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I am still on the fence
Planning to regear and add lockers, (Hopefully before Christmas)....for my 3.6 Auto, d30, and staying with 35's will 4.88 or 5.13 serve me better?
I still plan to drive to rides and it does see some Daily Driving (so maintaining 70mph) to the mall and stuff... I tow a landscape trailer with kayaks occasionally but I don't think either of these gearing options will affect towing...
I have seen the charts but I might as well be looking at an abstract painting...they really do not make a lot of sense. To me.
Thoughts?
If you're daily driving it, 5.13 is way too much gear. I'm running 4.88 with 37's it is the right gearing for DD and trail duty.
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I have plans for 4.88, although Doug will tell you you can never have too much gearing. For my purposes I'm just trying to decide how long it will be before the D44 front end swap. And how long I'm willing to wait......
If you were running with the 3.8L you might consider 5.13, but I would think the 4.88 should be plenty unless you're going up to 40's at any point.
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With the way aftermarket axles have started dropping i would definately consider a 44 front before i would regear and lock a dana 30. Just save your money a little longer.
https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html (https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html)
The dynatracs are 6500 which is still pricey but then you get a 35 spline rear with new axle shafts.
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE (https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE)
the ultimate 44 is another less expensive option. At 3 grand this around 1500 to 1800 over what you would have into a locked and regeared 30 if you use a selectable locker.
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I have plans for 4.88, although Doug will tell you you can never have too much gearing. For my purposes I'm just trying to decide how long it will be before the D44 front end swap. And how long I'm willing to wait......
If you were running with the 3.8L you might consider 5.13, but I would think the 4.88 should be plenty unless you're going up to 40's at any point.
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I respectfully disagree with DOUG. You van definitely have too much gear on the road. Use the chart and pick wisely.
Completely agree with Sam. Don't build a D30. Save for a D44.
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With the way aftermarket axles have started dropping i would definately consider a 44 front before i would regear and lock a dana 30. Just save your money a little longer.
https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html (https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html)
The dynatracs are 6500 which is still pricey but then you get a 35 spline rear with new axle shafts.
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE (https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE)
the ultimate 44 is another less expensive option. At 3 grand this around 1500 to 1800 over what you would have into a locked and regeared 30 if you use a selectable locker.
Don't forget that you can also sail your front to recoup some of the cost
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With the way aftermarket axles have started dropping i would definately consider a 44 front before i would regear and lock a dana 30. Just save your money a little longer.
https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html (https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html)
The dynatracs are 6500 which is still pricey but then you get a 35 spline rear with new axle shafts.
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE (https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE)
the ultimate 44 is another less expensive option. At 3 grand this around 1500 to 1800 over what you would have into a locked and regeared 30 if you use a selectable locker.
Don't forget that you can also sail your front to recoup some of the cost
How much of a market is there for a D30 front?
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With the way aftermarket axles have started dropping i would definately consider a 44 front before i would regear and lock a dana 30. Just save your money a little longer.
https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html (https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html)
The dynatracs are 6500 which is still pricey but then you get a 35 spline rear with new axle shafts.
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE (https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE)
the ultimate 44 is another less expensive option. At 3 grand this around 1500 to 1800 over what you would have into a locked and regeared 30 if you use a selectable locker.
Don't forget that you can also sail your front to recoup some of the cost
How much of a market is there for a D30 front?
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Find the guy who bent his housing and can't afford a new axle. He'd pay $500 for a whole setup
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With the way aftermarket axles have started dropping i would definately consider a 44 front before i would regear and lock a dana 30. Just save your money a little longer.
https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html (https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html)
The dynatracs are 6500 which is still pricey but then you get a 35 spline rear with new axle shafts.
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE (https://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differential/Dana-Spicer-Jeep-JK-Ultimate-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Assembly-4-88-Ratio-10010521.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=475&t_pt=7572&t_pn=D%2fS10010521&utm_source=google%2cgoogle&utm_medium=cpc%2ccpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&scid=scplpD%2fS10010521&sc_intid=D%2fS10010521&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlIWzwoHw1QIVRYezCh1RPQ1eEAQYASABEgI6a_D_BwE)
the ultimate 44 is another less expensive option. At 3 grand this around 1500 to 1800 over what you would have into a locked and regeared 30 if you use a selectable locker.
Don't forget that you can also sail your front to recoup some of the cost
How much of a market is there for a D30 front?
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Find the guy who bent his housing and can't afford a new axle. He'd pay $500 for a whole setup
I like this idea.
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I ran my D30 for a long time on 35's with 5.13 gears, never having an issue with stock shafts, alot is in how u wheel. at the start i had no plans to go larger than 35's and if thats the case, the 30 will serve u well, just add some gussets and your good.. cheaper than a PR44. and will last, lots of guys running D30 with no issues. the 44 was due to the Trump Pitbull tire deal, 37's. just wanted more strength for the larger tires.
dont get over sold on the D44 plenty of guys run D30 with 35's and have never had an issue, unless ur hard on the skinny pedal u should be fine for a long while. just my .02 and experience. i actually ran it, wheeled it, no breakage. the 5.13 gears are tiny for a D30 but 4.88 would be just fine IMO.
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I think regearing the d30 is wise. I don't know if I would throw too much money at the 30 if you want the 44 in the end. If you think the D30 is where you want to stay, then locking and trussing is definitely a good idea on that route.
Here is a link to the D44 that I bought through Northridge. Pretty much a bullet proof pro rock 44 for 5k
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/complete-axle-sets/prorock44unl-dynatrac-prorock-44-unlimited-package-assembled
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dont get over sold on the D44 plenty of guys run D30 with 35's and have never had an issue, unless ur hard on the skinny pedal u should be fine for a long while. just my .02 and experience. i actually ran it, wheeled it, no breakage. the 5.13 gears are tiny for a D30 but 4.88 would be just fine IMO.
I might not agree often with Kent, but this time I do.
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dont get over sold on the D44 plenty of guys run D30 with 35's and have never had an issue, unless ur hard on the skinny pedal u should be fine for a long while. just my .02 and experience. i actually ran it, wheeled it, no breakage. the 5.13 gears are tiny for a D30 but 4.88 would be just fine IMO.
I might not agree often with Kent, but this time I do.
I do agree with Kent to a point. You can't plan to any degree of accuracy of the situations you can get into. There could always be that time when you get into something that requires full torque to get you out. Remember, the D30 only has a 7-1/8" (vs. D44 8.5") ring gear and when you gear it to 5.13 or lower, you're putting more torque and stress on it then it was ever meant to take. Add to that the extra 20+ lbs of wheel and tire with less backspace (spacer or wheel) and it won't take a lot to break. It comes down to always running on the edge of danger or running in the sweet spot.
Your rig, your choice. It's like the guy on GATR Facebook page that is running 40's with "built" 44's and says he wheels it. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
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Planning to regear and add lockers, (Hopefully before Christmas)....for my 3.6 Auto, d30, and staying with 35's will 4.88 or 5.13 serve me better?
I basically have the same setup as you, except I have a 6 speed. After adding a lift and 35's, I was thinking 4.56 would be plenty for a daily driver/off-road weekend warrior. Should be a dramatic difference coming from 3.21.
Seems to me with 5.13's you'd be revving high cruising 70 (not that the powertrain couldn't handle it though). I take a lot of road trips so that would be a factor for me.
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I don't know what the 3.6 auto or 6 speed is turning with 35s or 37s at 75 or 80 mph
but trust me. You'll hardly notice.
Assume 4:88 is 2000 rpm
Then 5.13 is 2102 rpm +102
Then 5.38 is 2205 rpm +205 barely noticeable difference 10%
Assume 4:88 is 2500 rpm
Then 5.13 is 2628 rpm +128
Then 5.38 is 2756 rpm +256 barely noticeable difference 10%
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I basically have the same setup as you, except I have a 6 speed. After adding a lift and 35's, I was thinking 4.56 would be plenty for a daily driver/off-road weekend warrior. Should be a dramatic difference coming from 3.21.
Seems to me with 5.13's you'd be revving high cruising 70 (not that the powertrain couldn't handle it though). I take a lot of road trips so that would be a factor for me.
Your difference is HUGE from 3.21:1 but tire size eats it up fast.
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I don't know what the 3.6 auto or 6 speed is turning with 35s or 37s at 75 or 80 mph
but trust me. You'll hardly notice.
Assume 4:88 is 2000 rpm
Then 5.13 is 2102 rpm +102
Then 5.38 is 2205 rpm +205 barely noticeable difference 10%
Assume 4:88 is 2500 rpm
Then 5.13 is 2628 rpm +128
Then 5.38 is 2756 rpm +256 barely noticeable difference 10%
On my 3.6 Auto. Running 4:56 at 70-75mph sitting on 3k rpms on 35" tires.
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I run 4.88 on D30 and locked and use it sparingly as a DD. Perfect gear choice in my opinion. I'm methodical when wheeling and don't anticipate a problem 🤞
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As always, wheeling style/skill counts for a lot. Most axle breakage is a result of bouncing while powering or wedging the tires.
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I don't know what the 3.6 auto or 6 speed is turning with 35s or 37s at 75 or 80 mph
but trust me. You'll hardly notice.
Assume 4:88 is 2000 rpm
Then 5.13 is 2102 rpm +102
Then 5.38 is 2205 rpm +205 barely noticeable difference 10%
Assume 4:88 is 2500 rpm
Then 5.13 is 2628 rpm +128
Then 5.38 is 2756 rpm +256 barely noticeable difference 10%
Ok cool... much less than I thought.
IIRC (and I'll check on the way home tonight), 3.21 on 32's in 5th gear (6th sucks at this point) is 2900 at 80 mph.
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I don't know what the 3.6 auto or 6 speed is turning with 35s or 37s at 75 or 80 mph
but trust me. You'll hardly notice.
Assume 4:88 is 2000 rpm
Then 5.13 is 2102 rpm +102
Then 5.38 is 2205 rpm +205 barely noticeable difference 10%
Assume 4:88 is 2500 rpm
Then 5.13 is 2628 rpm +128
Then 5.38 is 2756 rpm +256 barely noticeable difference 10%
On my 3.6 Auto. Running 4:56 at 70-75mph sitting on 3k rpms.
Tire Size?
Use that engineering hocus pocus to figure 35's and 37s with PI
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I should say I NEVER recommend 5.38 for a Dana 30. Probably never more than 4.88 :1 becuase the gears are SO TINY.
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So if you plan on running a larger tire in the future, save your money and find a 44 somewhere. I know alot of guys who run the D30 without any issues. Todd runs one in his CJ and he beats that thing on 35's. I ran a 30 years ago before I swapped to the waggy front and never had an issue with it and the aussie locker. But I only ran 33's on it for fear of going to big on it. So if you are a mild non heavy footed driver keep the 30, plan on going bigger tire etc, save for a 44. But there has to be better deals out there or somebody selling a stock 44 housing cheaper than $5-6000!! Build one.
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In a Dana 30, with 5.13s, there is only one tooth on the pinion in constant contact with the ring gear. I think 1.5 or 2 with 4.88s.
Most Dana 30 owners don't go above 4.56 for this reason. Insurance.
Personally, I'd get a Rubi 44 & sail the 30.
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So if you plan on running a larger tire in the future, save your money and find a 44 somewhere. I know alot of guys who run the D30 without any issues. Todd runs one in his CJ and he beats that thing on 35's. I ran a 30 years ago before I swapped to the waggy front and never had an issue with it and the aussie locker. But I only ran 33's on it for fear of going to big on it. So if you are a mild non heavy footed driver keep the 30, plan on going bigger tire etc, save for a 44. But there has to be better deals out there or somebody selling a stock 44 housing cheaper than $5-6000!! Build one.
Remember though he has a jk. Gotta keep the electronics happy. You would be hard pressed to build a junkyard 44 with selectable locker and all the jk electronics crap with jk specific brackets for what the ultimate 44 cost.
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In a Dana 30, with 5.13s, there is only one tooth on the pinion in constant contact with the ring gear. I think 1.5 or 2 with 4.88s.
Most Dana 30 owners don't go above 4.56 for this reason. Insurance.
Personally, I'd get a Rubi 44 & sail the 30.
I think this is true on D44's as well. From what I have read most of the ring and pinion breaks are on gears higher than 4:88's.
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In a Dana 30, with 5.13s, there is only one tooth on the pinion in constant contact with the ring gear. I think 1.5 or 2 with 4.88s.
Most Dana 30 owners don't go above 4.56 for this reason. Insurance.
Personally, I'd get a Rubi 44 & sail the 30.
I think this is true on D44's as well. From what I have read most of the ring and pinion breaks are on gears higher than 4:88's.
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I broke a few rear ring gears on my old 44 with 5.38 gears. If I was building a 44 again I would do 5.13 gears.
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I'd see if I could find a dirty thirty someone has built up and decided to go a different route. That one Kent had was built...how much did he sell it for? @kentssocool
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I'd see if I could find a dirty thirty someone has built up and decided to go a different route. That one Kent had was built...how much did he sell it for? @kentssocool
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sold it for cheap, but i had several other reason for pushing to the PR44, had long conversations with several members and @Danny Kinder before pulling the trigger. as with anything, u will have 10 diff. view points on what to do, how to do it, whatever u do, dont react. ask everyone and take all comments with a grain of salt. in the end, its YOUR rig, do what U want and feels right. will u make mistakes, sure, but we all do, its how u learn.
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I'd see if I could find a dirty thirty someone has built up and decided to go a different route. That one Kent had was built...how much did he sell it for? @kentssocool
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sold it for cheap, but i had several other reason for pushing to the PR44, had long conversations with several members and @Danny Kinder before pulling the trigger. as with anything, u will have 10 diff. view points on what to do, how to do it, whatever u do, dont react. ask everyone and take all comments with a grain of salt. in the end, its YOUR rig, do what U want and feels right. will u make mistakes, sure, but we all do, its how u learn.
The only time Kent did not ask for opinions, he ended up "angry."
See what I did there.
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I'd see if I could find a dirty thirty someone has built up and decided to go a different route. That one Kent had was built...how much did he sell it for? @kentssocool
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sold it for cheap, but i had several other reason for pushing to the PR44, had long conversations with several members and @Danny Kinder before pulling the trigger. as with anything, u will have 10 diff. view points on what to do, how to do it, whatever u do, dont react. ask everyone and take all comments with a grain of salt. in the end, its YOUR rig, do what U want and feels right. will u make mistakes, sure, but we all do, its how u learn.
The only time Kent did not ask for opinions, he ended up "angry."
See what I did there.
Yes, well done.
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After discussions with the Admiral...this is where I am headed, https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/jeep-jk-wrangler/dynatrac-axle-sets/trail-leader-axle-package.html
With the 5.13/Dynatrac ball joints/ and the 1/2" wall.....this way if/when I decide to go 37's I'll be ready.
I don't want to throw good money away trying to make the d30 work only to be let down with a crappy busted d30, because thats what seems to happen to d30's.
I found this article http://www.drivingline.com/articles/wheel-more-worry-less-dynatrac-prorock-44-review/
and this Jkowners discussion which pertains to my 3.6 and gearing questions
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/modified-jk-tech-dept/16134-4-88-vs-5-13-gears.html#/topics/16134?page=3
I still need to sell my 8' Porta Bote and the lift and wheels from GATRfest to bring all this together. From the Four Wheeler Article it looks like I will need to add upper Control Arms and flip the drag link and add some bump stop. My current lift is a RK 2.5
Cleaned the jeep up yesterday and saw where both sliders had gotten into the body near the rear wheel wells. Also had some damage on my corners from the rear bumper contacting them....Sliders and eventually a different rear bumper and corner armor but that's down the road, isn't it always?
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$6500 wow.
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$6500 wow.
+ Install
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$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
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$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
No offense here. I know the JK stuff is more expensive and has electronic stuff but I can't believe you can't build an axle for atleast half of that. What makes an axle build so difficult on the JK setup? It's a killer axle though.
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$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
No offense here. I know the JK stuff is more expensive and has electronic stuff but I can't believe you can't build an axle for atleast half of that. What makes an axle build so difficult on the JK setup? It's a killer axle though.
Another question, what are the differences between this axle and a rubi D44?
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$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
No offense here. I know the JK stuff is more expensive and has electronic stuff but I can't believe you can't build an axle for atleast half of that. What makes an axle build so difficult on the JK setup? It's a killer axle though.
Another question, what are the differences between this axle and a rubi D44?
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This is one of the big differences.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170825/b2ca3f43d9829371b942c9041d333e5d.jpg)
Ben, look at all of the guys running JY axles on JKs. If you don't do the fab work yourself, it'll cost more.
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$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
No offense here. I know the JK stuff is more expensive and has electronic stuff but I can't believe you can't build an axle for atleast half of that. What makes an axle build so difficult on the JK setup? It's a killer axle though.
Another question, what are the differences between this axle and a rubi D44?
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This is one of the big differences.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170825/b2ca3f43d9829371b942c9041d333e5d.jpg)
Ben, look at all of the guys running JY axles on JKs. If you don't do the fab work yourself, it'll cost more.
I wonder what the difference is overall tube strength of the Rubicon D44 that is Artec trussed compared to the PR.
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$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
No offense here. I know the JK stuff is more expensive and has electronic stuff but I can't believe you can't build an axle for atleast half of that. What makes an axle build so difficult on the JK setup? It's a killer axle though.
Another question, what are the differences between this axle and a rubi D44?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is one of the big differences.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170825/b2ca3f43d9829371b942c9041d333e5d.jpg)
Ben, look at all of the guys running JY axles on JKs. If you don't do the fab work yourself, it'll cost more.
I wonder what the difference is overall tube strength of the Rubicon D44 that is Artec trussed compared to the PR.
One reason I liked the pro rock over a trussed 44 was the additional separation of the pinion and c's. I was able to run 7+ degrees of caster with no driveshaft vibration. Another difference is higher clearance over the stock 44.
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$6500 wow.
+ Install
I'd buy this first
http://www.currieenterprises.com/JK-RJIIIF
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$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
No offense here. I know the JK stuff is more expensive and has electronic stuff but I can't believe you can't build an axle for atleast half of that. What makes an axle build so difficult on the JK setup? It's a killer axle though.
Guess it depends on who builds it. Those dynatrac axles are pretty much bolt on, whereas a junkyard would require extensive fabrication to be comparable. The parts and time really add up if you do it yourself.
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Oh I get the fab work and all. I know the JK axles are wider than the standard TJ and so on so finding an axle that is the same width or close would be tricky I imagine. That seems to be the real issue I feel. You can't throw waggy 44 in a JK front so it eliminates alot of "junk yard" axle builds. Mike that 1 ton currie looks like a killer setup.
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Oh I get the fab work and all. I know the JK axles are wider than the standard TJ and so on so finding an axle that is the same width or close would be tricky I imagine. That seems to be the real issue I feel. You can't throw waggy 44 in a JK front so it eliminates alot of "junk yard" axle builds. Mike that 1 ton currie looks like a killer setup.
Im pretty sure JK differentials have a larger ring and pinion than old 44 stuff as well. So even a JY swap doesn't compare evenly
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$6500 wow.
+ Install
It would be very difficult for me to spend that much cheddar on axles & them not be tons.
#yourjeepyour$
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$6500 wow.
+ Install
It would be very difficult for me to spend that much cheddar on axles & them not be tons.
#yourjeepyour$
I originally went this route but also did a semi float 60. There is so much more additional cost to going one tons that they still don't compare. Realistically he would probably be into a one ton swap for triple the cost of this once you add in all the extras
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$6500 wow.
+ Install
It would be very difficult for me to spend that much cheddar on axles & them not be tons.
#yourjeepyour$
Axle, not axles... a lot of cheese for sure!
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
but I can't believe you can't build an axle for atleast half of that.
Believe it. if someone could do it there is a HUGE market for it. It costs what it costs.
@Blue J JUST ANOTHER AHOLE OPINION lol,
IMHO I wouldn't touch an axle upgrade knowing your path and desire to wheel WITHOUT LOCKING HUBS and going 60. I believe in ONCE AND DONE because I've never been good at it and I pay double, triple, sometimes 4x. Do the front now, it will be set for life, and do the rear when you can.
I would buy the ULTIMATE 60 for up front, huge benefits
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52459_100X_PG.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwlf_MBRDUARIsAD8Gj8DfijM5VOdejfkqkqIVR0qAykfW2550RlLAY0V4iv2FW5LSI8KyplsaArXHEALw_wcB
Dana Spicer® Ultimate Dana 60 Front Axle for 07-17 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK
$7,600.00
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$6500 wow.
+ Install
I'd buy this first
http://www.currieenterprises.com/JK-RJIIIF
Did you read it is incomplete? Add $$$$$
All you need to complete this unit are a high pinion Dana 60 ring and pinion gear set, Dana 60 35 spline carrier of your choice, a center section bearing & set up kit and labor to set it up!
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Axle, as in one (1)? WOW!!!!!
-
$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
but I can't believe you can't build an axle for atleast half of that.
Believe it. if someone could do it there is a HUGE market for it. It costs what it costs.
@Blue J JUST ANOTHER AHOLE OPINION lol,
IMHO I wouldn't touch an axle upgrade knowing your path and desire to wheel WITHOUT LOCKING HUBS and going 60. I believe in ONCE AND DONE because I've never been good at it and I pay double, triple, sometimes 4x. Do the front now, it will be set for life, and do the rear when you can.
I would buy the ULTIMATE 60 for up front, huge benefits
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52459_100X_PG.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwlf_MBRDUARIsAD8Gj8DfijM5VOdejfkqkqIVR0qAykfW2550RlLAY0V4iv2FW5LSI8KyplsaArXHEALw_wcB
Dana Spicer Ultimate Dana 60 Front Axle for 07-17 Jeep Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK
$7,600.00
Jesus!! So, looks like I'll be riding the stock 30 for about 20 years to save for all of this crap.
$15,000 for the axles
$2000 for tires
$2000 for 8 lug beadlocks
Not to mention everything else that needs done. Cage, bumper, armor, stronger sliders, steering upgrades.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Axle, as in one (1)? WOW!!!!!
Yup.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
-
$6500 wow.
+ Install
I'd buy this first
http://www.currieenterprises.com/JK-RJIIIF
Did you read it is incomplete? Add $$$$$
All you need to complete this unit are a high pinion Dana 60 ring and pinion gear set, Dana 60 35 spline carrier of your choice, a center section bearing & set up kit and labor to set it up!
Reading comprehension isn't my thing. YIKES.
-
$6500 wow.
Better than putting a few grand into an axle that is weaker and wont get anything out of resale.
Good call imo Jimbo
but I can't believe you can't build an axle for atleast half of that.
Believe it. if someone could do it there is a HUGE market for it. It costs what it costs.
@Blue J JUST ANOTHER AHOLE OPINION lol,
IMHO I wouldn't touch an axle upgrade knowing your path and desire to wheel WITHOUT LOCKING HUBS and going 60. I believe in ONCE AND DONE because I've never been good at it and I pay double, triple, sometimes 4x. Do the front now, it will be set for life, and do the rear when you can.
I would buy the ULTIMATE 60 for up front, huge benefits
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52459_100X_PG.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwlf_MBRDUARIsAD8Gj8DfijM5VOdejfkqkqIVR0qAykfW2550RlLAY0V4iv2FW5LSI8KyplsaArXHEALw_wcB
Dana Spicer Ultimate Dana 60 Front Axle for 07-17 Jeep Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK
$7,600.00
Jesus!! So, looks like I'll be riding the stock 30 for about 20 years to save for all of this crap.
$15,000 for the axles
$2000 for tires
$2000 for 8 lug beadlocks
Not to mention everything else that needs done. Cage, bumper, armor, stronger sliders, steering upgrades.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Unless you already have a Rubicon, you can add $1500- $4000 for a t case to that running total. Plus incidentals.
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2 AXLES!
Fusion D60/44 Hybrid and Semi-Float D60 Rear Package
https://www.fusion4x4.com/online-store/Fusion-D60-44-Hybrid-and-Semi-Float-D60-Rear-Package-p87985278
$8 200.00
Part NumberFUS-D60FRHSF
We decided to put together the ultimate package! The strongest front and rear axles in their class combined with the strongest tie rod in its class. Doesn't get any better than that!!
Includes all of the Following:
Fusion D60/44 Hybrid Front Axle:
- Complete Assembly
- Gears, and setup included, choice or traction device
- RCV Axle Shafts
- Spicer Ball Joints, installed (upgrade options available)
- Axles set for additional 3 degrees of caster; no charge for custom pinion angle
Fusion Dana 60 Semi-Float Rear Axle:
- Complete Assembly
- Gears, and setup included, choice or traction device
- 35 Spline Chromoly Axle Shafts
Fusion 4x4 2.5 Ton Tie Rod:
- Includes our new and stronger heat treated tie rod ends (yep, we made the strongest even stronger!)
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^^^^ much better deal! I dig that.
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2 AXLES!
Fusion D60/44 Hybrid and Semi-Float D60 Rear Package
https://www.fusion4x4.com/online-store/Fusion-D60-44-Hybrid-and-Semi-Float-D60-Rear-Package-p87985278
$8 200.00
Part NumberFUS-D60FRHSF
We decided to put together the ultimate package! The strongest front and rear axles in their class combined with the strongest tie rod in its class. Doesn't get any better than that!!
Includes all of the Following:
Fusion D60/44 Hybrid Front Axle:
- Complete Assembly
- Gears, and setup included, choice or traction device
- RCV Axle Shafts
- Spicer Ball Joints, installed (upgrade options available)
- Axles set for additional 3 degrees of caster; no charge for custom pinion angle
Fusion Dana 60 Semi-Float Rear Axle:
- Complete Assembly
- Gears, and setup included, choice or traction device
- 35 Spline Chromoly Axle Shafts
Fusion 4x4 2.5 Ton Tie Rod:
- Includes our new and stronger heat treated tie rod ends (yep, we made the strongest even stronger!)
And thats just a small taste, once u do the above, it gets worse and more $$$ remember that..
-
2 AXLES!
Fusion D60/44 Hybrid and Semi-Float D60 Rear Package
https://www.fusion4x4.com/online-store/Fusion-D60-44-Hybrid-and-Semi-Float-D60-Rear-Package-p87985278
$8 200.00
Part NumberFUS-D60FRHSF
We decided to put together the ultimate package! The strongest front and rear axles in their class combined with the strongest tie rod in its class. Doesn't get any better than that!!
Includes all of the Following:
Fusion D60/44 Hybrid Front Axle:
- Complete Assembly
- Gears, and setup included, choice or traction device
- RCV Axle Shafts
- Spicer Ball Joints, installed (upgrade options available)
- Axles set for additional 3 degrees of caster; no charge for custom pinion angle
Fusion Dana 60 Semi-Float Rear Axle:
- Complete Assembly
- Gears, and setup included, choice or traction device
- 35 Spline Chromoly Axle Shafts
Fusion 4x4 2.5 Ton Tie Rod:
- Includes our new and stronger heat treated tie rod ends (yep, we made the strongest even stronger!)
Mo betta!!!!
I didn't see anywhere if it was 8 or 5 lug. That could add a couple grand.
Nother question. I understand that the 35 spline as opposed to the 30 is better due to the number of teeth and strengthening that point, but what other benefits are there? Are they thicker? How many people have actually broken a 30 spline? Also, I've noticed most of the guys go with an are locker as opposed to the eaton. Are there actual strength benefits, or is it just a preference thing?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
Suggesting 60's in the front is fine when its not your cheddar. @Doug I am sure you have not built your last jeep. Perhaps next time Madison will let you keep it. //::)//
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package™ includes an assembled ProRock 44™ Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
Suggesting 60's in the front is fine when its not your cheddar. @Doug I am sure you have not built your last jeep. Perhaps next time Madison will let you keep it. //::)//
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package™ includes an assembled ProRock 44™ Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
Solid plan for what you're after. Will handle 37s with zero problem if you decide to go up in tire size
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
Suggesting 60's in the front is fine when its not your cheddar. @Doug I am sure you have not built your last jeep. Perhaps next time Madison will let you keep it. //::)//
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
Solid plan for what you're after. Will handle 37s with zero problem if you decide to go up in tire size
I agree 100%. A 4 door with lockers on 37s is very capable
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
Suggesting 60's in the front is fine when its not your cheddar. @Doug I am sure you have not built your last jeep. Perhaps next time Madison will let you keep it. //::)//
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package™ includes an assembled ProRock 44™ Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
Don't forget drag link and tie rod.
Have you thought about a take off Rubicon front D44 and Artec truss kit plus Synergy HD ball joints?
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
Suggesting 60's in the front is fine when its not your cheddar. @Doug I am sure you have not built your last jeep. Perhaps next time Madison will let you keep it. //::)//
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package™ includes an assembled ProRock 44™ Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
Don't forget drag link and tie rod.
Have you thought about a take off Rubicon front D44 and Artec truss kit plus Synergy HD ball joints?
I have a Synergy Drag Link and a Rock Krawler Pro Tie Rod.
Are you selling your Rubicon d44? I tend to not buy used. I'f I buy it new and tear it up myself I know what I have done to it.
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2 AXLES!
Fusion D60/44 Hybrid and Semi-Float D60 Rear Package
https://www.fusion4x4.com/online-store/Fusion-D60-44-Hybrid-and-Semi-Float-D60-Rear-Package-p87985278
$8 200.00
Part NumberFUS-D60FRHSF
We decided to put together the ultimate package! The strongest front and rear axles in their class combined with the strongest tie rod in its class. Doesn't get any better than that!!
Includes all of the Following:
Fusion D60/44 Hybrid Front Axle:
- Complete Assembly
- Gears, and setup included, choice or traction device
- RCV Axle Shafts
- Spicer Ball Joints, installed (upgrade options available)
- Axles set for additional 3 degrees of caster; no charge for custom pinion angle
Fusion Dana 60 Semi-Float Rear Axle:
- Complete Assembly
- Gears, and setup included, choice or traction device
- 35 Spline Chromoly Axle Shafts
Fusion 4x4 2.5 Ton Tie Rod:
- Includes our new and stronger heat treated tie rod ends (yep, we made the strongest even stronger!)
And thats just a small taste, once u do the above, it gets worse and more $$$ remember that..
I forgot hydro assist steering. $1k??
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package™ includes an assembled ProRock 44™ Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
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My road to 37s.
Artec both axles
Fenders, sliders, rocker armor (optional)
Regear to 4.88
Beadlocks
Tires
Still need:
Hydro assist
Reid Knuckles
RCV'S shafts
Cage
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package™ includes an assembled ProRock 44™ Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
-
Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Solid choice. What shafts did you end up with?
I love my pro rock. Its a pretty penny up front but you are also buying unbeatable customer service with dynatrac, arb, and I'm guessing Yukon gears?
I strongly advise you spend the 40 something dollars on gear warranty. Its lifetime warranty on the gears. (Yukon offers this)
You won't be worrying about the front housing any longer.
I did not do the drag link flip nor buy upper control arms. Not sure if you stated that you HAD to buy them or just wanted to.
Cheers!
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. That settles it, probably gonna stick with 44's and 37's. Atleast for the foreseeable future. I really had no intentions of going to a 40"tire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. That settles it, probably gonna stick with 44's and 37's. Atleast for the foreseeable future. I really had no intentions of going to a 40"tire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Neither did I
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
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It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. That settles it, probably gonna stick with 44's and 37's. Atleast for the foreseeable future. I really had no intentions of going to a 40"tire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Neither did I
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The irony here is that Puddin has taller street tires than off-road tires...he's not normal! Of course, there is the whole "best sticky tires in the world" thing he has going for him when off-road!
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. That settles it, probably gonna stick with 44's and 37's. Atleast for the foreseeable future. I really had no intentions of going to a 40"tire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Neither did I
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The irony here is that Puddin has taller street tires than off-road tires...he's not normal! Of course, there is the whole "best sticky tires in the world" thing he has going for him when off-road!
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
The real irony is I've never had all these hitting every little pebble offroad issues that you speak of. Is it luck or plain ole driving skill? I'm guessing the latter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. That settles it, probably gonna stick with 44's and 37's. Atleast for the foreseeable future. I really had no intentions of going to a 40"tire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Neither did I
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The irony here is that Puddin has taller street tires than off-road tires...he's not normal! Of course, there is the whole "best sticky tires in the world" thing he has going for him when off-road!
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
The real irony is I've never had all these hitting every little pebble offroad issues that you speak of. Is it luck or plain ole driving skill? I'm guessing the latter.
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Likely the latter. I'd like to get a look at the unmarked chunks on your rig.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. That settles it, probably gonna stick with 44's and 37's. Atleast for the foreseeable future. I really had no intentions of going to a 40"tire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Neither did I
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The irony here is that Puddin has taller street tires than off-road tires...he's not normal! Of course, there is the whole "best sticky tires in the world" thing he has going for him when off-road!
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
The real irony is I've never had all these hitting every little pebble offroad issues that you speak of. Is it luck or plain ole driving skill? I'm guessing the latter.
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Likely the latter. I'd like to get a look at the unmarked chunks on your rig.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Green trails Clark. No marks. All kidding aside I did notice in the creek bed you had a much easier time in that one spot than tony and I. Bfg needs to make a 42" red in 17" rim size.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. That settles it, probably gonna stick with 44's and 37's. Atleast for the foreseeable future. I really had no intentions of going to a 40"tire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Neither did I
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The irony here is that Puddin has taller street tires than off-road tires...he's not normal! Of course, there is the whole "best sticky tires in the world" thing he has going for him when off-road!
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
The real irony is I've never had all these hitting every little pebble offroad issues that you speak of. Is it luck or plain ole driving skill? I'm guessing the latter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Likely the latter. I'd like to get a look at the unmarked chunks on your rig.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Green trails Clark. No marks. All kidding aside I did notice in the creek bed you had a much easier time in that one spot than tony and I. Bfg needs to make a 42" red in 17" rim size.
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That would be pretty awesome.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. That settles it, probably gonna stick with 44's and 37's. Atleast for the foreseeable future. I really had no intentions of going to a 40"tire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Neither did I
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The irony here is that Puddin has taller street tires than off-road tires...he's not normal! Of course, there is the whole "best sticky tires in the world" thing he has going for him when off-road!
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
The real irony is I've never had all these hitting every little pebble offroad issues that you speak of. Is it luck or plain ole driving skill? I'm guessing the latter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Likely the latter. I'd like to get a look at the unmarked chunks on your rig.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Green trails Clark. No marks. All kidding aside I did notice in the creek bed you had a much easier time in that one spot than tony and I. Bfg needs to make a 42" red in 17" rim size.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well, he does have a REAL Jeep.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Is daily driving a 60 not an option?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's an option, but to wheel them you need 40s, which means: two sets of tires, huge street tires, or dragging diff over every pebble on a trail.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. That settles it, probably gonna stick with 44's and 37's. Atleast for the foreseeable future. I really had no intentions of going to a 40"tire
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Neither did I
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The irony here is that Puddin has taller street tires than off-road tires...he's not normal! Of course, there is the whole "best sticky tires in the world" thing he has going for him when off-road!
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
The real irony is I've never had all these hitting every little pebble offroad issues that you speak of. Is it luck or plain ole driving skill? I'm guessing the latter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Likely the latter. I'd like to get a look at the unmarked chunks on your rig.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Green trails Clark. No marks. All kidding aside I did notice in the creek bed you had a much easier time in that one spot than tony and I. Bfg needs to make a 42" red in 17" rim size.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well, he does have a REAL Jeep.
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Yea real dirty
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Is it luck or plain ole driving skill? I'm guessing the latter.
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Plain? That shit's vanilla
Bite the bullet and go 20s with the big reds. Your 39/17 setup should be easy to sell
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Is it luck or plain ole driving skill? I'm guessing the latter.
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Plain? That shit's vanilla
Bite the bullet and go 20s with the big reds. Your 39/17 setup should be easy to sell
Everybody except Tripp says they just aren't the same. Bfg claims exact same compound but that doesn't align w the reviews.
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Going 60's is not in the cards. Not now, or ever. Its not in the plan. 60's means more changes and a trailer. Its not the end game I am after.
This Dynatrac d44 set up is
The Trail Leader Axle Package includes an assembled ProRock 44 Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover and ARB air Locker.
The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade kit, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit.
So its the Front Axle and the rear inners. I will need to add the compressor, front upper control arms, flip kit, and bumpstop
I want to make sure you now what you're not getting, and you are absolutely correct, your chichang, your decision, we all support you whatever that is. I am only suggesting 1 - 60.... now, or the 44/60 combo that is a steal in comparison to the Pro-Rock setup.
I agree the Fusion 44/60 combo is a good deal but it will take another $4-5k in Steering Assist/Brakes/Upper CA's (Plus whatever else goes wrong during the install, I hear those Fusion Axle installs are easy) and Labor, to make it work. And then a tow piggy and a trailer.
Lol yep the sterling is abiatttch
But this is an easy clearance 60
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@blue j
From Dan owner at Fusion4x4
The Hybrid front and semifloat rear are bolt in ready, except for the parts that need to be transferred from the stock axles.
On the rear the cast brake caliper hangers get transferred over and rotors..
On the front, knuckles, unit bearings, and brake parts.
Some people opt to upgrade the knuckles at that point. Ball joints are part of the options. I don't think we've sold one without ball joints. We pay less and install for free.
Beyond that he will need driveshafts or if he has aftermarket they might need shortening.
Choice or 1310 or 1350 pinion yokes.
Our website highlights a lot of the features as well if he hasn't checked that out.
With new ball joints, RCVs, move over other parts. $8200 total.
And you can sell your axles as is. They have value!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170826/f049c013f3f4b728b7149c65540c90fa.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170826/f1a8e4f25d831b3aa0d47bde4d06e715.jpg)
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Extra $2k for 44/60 combo with RCV up front would be hard to pass up for me personally. Even if there was minor pain that needed labor to address.
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Why ARB? The compressor is a added expense. Sure you can slowly air up tires with it but with a E locker it is a lot easier to fix a damaged line/wire on the trail.
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I read most of this thread and I'm got lost on who needs axles.
The 44 / whatever combo would be great for 37" tires and get you into a lot of trouble. I have taken 37" and followed 1 tons rigs where people had 39" before.
You could save up and get 37" stickies and trailer your stickies to the park on a small pull trailer behind the jeep.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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Why ARB? The compressor is a added expense. Sure you can slowly air up tires with it but with a E locker it is a lot easier to fix a damaged line/wire on the trail.
Clark told me this weekend he dislikes his ELockers for a reason I'm sure he can share. On my TJ, I have a very long air tube (more than twice what's needed) for the ARB with the extra coiled up next to the pump. If the tube get a puncture I can just cut out the damaged section. The connectors are push to connect type.
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Why ARB? The compressor is a added expense. Sure you can slowly air up tires with it but with a E locker it is a lot easier to fix a damaged line/wire on the trail.
Clark told me this weekend he dislikes his ELockers for a reason I'm sure he can share. On my TJ, I have a very long air tube (more than twice what's needed) for the ARB with the extra coiled up next to the pump. If the tube get a puncture I can just cut out the damaged section. The connectors are push to connect type.
Electric vs auto vs air lockers
100's of pro's and cons to all of them. This poor thread has been derailed multiple times over. I helped I'm sure.
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Good point that he offers the Elocker that is easier and cheaper with no compressor.
But I of mind that everyone should have on board air so no additional cost there.
When I was buying RockJocks in 2011 Currie did not offer the Eaton Elocker because
In a torque twist to the end of the axle shaft the Eaton locker broke and in the same test with ARB the axle broke.
They since have strengthened it but the ARB is still stronger.
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Both my Jeeps have a Detroit in the front. TJ has hubs as it gets driven on the street. ARB in the rear for roadability.
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Good point that he offers the Elocker that is easier and cheaper with no compressor.
But I of mind that everyone should have on board air so no additional cost there.
When I was buying RockJocks in 2011 Currie did not offer the Eaton Elocker because
In a torque twist to the end of the axle shaft the Eaton locker broke and in the same test with ARB the axle broke.
They since have strengthened it but the ARB is still stronger.
I welcome the discussion on different lockers. Pros and cons. I agree with Doug that on board air is a useful addition and will eliminate the need to carry one as I am doing now.
In my 1st quote from @Danny Kinder we were looking at Yukon Zip lockers with the Arb compressor. The Trail boss kit from Dynatrac comes with ARB. I am not sure if there is an option to get it with the Yukon Locker. The Yukon is a couple clams less expensive.
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I bought axles already locked, with the front being a Detroit. I wouldn't have built it that way then, but I would now. I like that I can't forget to lock it, and more importantly, that it's not reliant on another component (air compressor, air hose, 12v wiring).
I drive mine on the road - with drive flanges - without an issue. Adding selectable hubs would make it an even bigger non issue for on road use.
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Why ARB? The compressor is a added expense. Sure you can slowly air up tires with it but with a E locker it is a lot easier to fix a damaged line/wire on the trail.
Clark told me this weekend he dislikes his ELockers for a reason I'm sure he can share. On my TJ, I have a very long air tube (more than twice what's needed) for the ARB with the extra coiled up next to the pump. If the tube get a puncture I can just cut out the damaged section. The connectors are push to connect type.
The reason I despise my e lockers is the half of a rotation it takes before the locker is locked.
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I bought axles already locked, with the front being a Detroit. I wouldn't have built it that way then, but I would now. I like that I can't forget to lock it, and more importantly, that it's not reliant on another component (air compressor, air hose, 12v wiring).
I drive mine on the road - with drive flanges - without an issue. Adding selectable hubs would make it an even bigger non issue for on road use.
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Great set up isn't it. A few guys out west run that combo so that's why I did it.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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I love my ARBs and wouldn't run anything else, barring some free axles falling from the sky. I like the select-ability and they engage/disengage quick and easy. I just have the mini compressor that won't air up tires. I wanted it dedicated for the lockers only.
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I love my ARBs and wouldn't run anything else, barring some free axles falling from the sky. I like the select-ability and they engage/disengage quick and easy. I just have the mini compressor that won't air up tires. I wanted it dedicated for the lockers only.
I have the dual ARB unit. I had a relay fail, which was OK because each compressor has its own relay and fuse. But it really made me think about how easily a rig could go from two lockers to none in an instant based on a single point of failure.
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Why ARB? The compressor is a added expense. Sure you can slowly air up tires with it but with a E locker it is a lot easier to fix a damaged line/wire on the trail.
Clark told me this weekend he dislikes his ELockers for a reason I'm sure he can share. On my TJ, I have a very long air tube (more than twice what's needed) for the ARB with the extra coiled up next to the pump. If the tube get a puncture I can just cut out the damaged section. The connectors are push to connect type.
The reason I despise my e lockers is the half of a rotation it takes before the locker is locked.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I never had that on my 44 elocker. Doesn't seem like it would be designed that way. They say it's normal?
Tony has the same?
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Why ARB? The compressor is a added expense. Sure you can slowly air up tires with it but with a E locker it is a lot easier to fix a damaged line/wire on the trail.
Clark told me this weekend he dislikes his ELockers for a reason I'm sure he can share. On my TJ, I have a very long air tube (more than twice what's needed) for the ARB with the extra coiled up next to the pump. If the tube get a puncture I can just cut out the damaged section. The connectors are push to connect type.
The reason I despise my e lockers is the half of a rotation it takes before the locker is locked.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I never had that on my 44 elocker. Doesn't seem like it would be designed that way. They say it's normal?
Tony has the same?
Normal
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Getting back to gears....
I broke a few rear ring gears on my old 44 with 5.38 gears. If I was building a 44 again I would do 5.13 gears.
...this is where I am currently headed. I have been told that the 5.13 is weaker than a 4.88 and that I may be giving up some passing gear, but it will be better on my JKU with my 3.6 than the 4.88
I have been heavy on the skinny in the past due to not having lockers. I hope that with lockers I will not have to get into it because I hear the 5.13 does not like a heavy foot. I am not sure what other advantages the 4.88 has other than being a little beefier. RPM wise they seem about the same.
End game is 37's although I will be on my 35's for at least another 10-15k miles or more, these Nitto Trail Grapplers are awesome.
I also found this calculator http://www.4ws.com/gear-ratio-rpm-calculator
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Locker are a night & day difference. I'm sure you will be able to stay off the gas once installed.
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I have been told I believe it was from Yukon 4.88 and 5.13 in pinion strength is the same. The break was 4.10 and down are stronger.
Speaking about a Dana 30
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I have been told I believe it was from Yukon 4.88 and 5.13 in pinion strength is the same. The break was 4.10 and down are stronger.
Speaking about a Dana 30
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and for a d44?
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I have been told I believe it was from Yukon 4.88 and 5.13 in pinion strength is the same. The break was 4.10 and down are stronger.
Speaking about a Dana 30
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and for a d44?
When I asked I was just concerned on the Dana 30. The Dana 44 is already a bigger pinion and ring gear.
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Locker are a night & day difference. I'm sure you will be able to stay off the gas once installed.
I missed that memo! J/k Locked front and rear will let creep up stuff you had to hit with skinny pedal.
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If you haven't bought an axle yet:(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/a89820705aad9be126fd27adafe94ae5.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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I said "able" not "will".