Georgia Trail Riders Forum
CLASSIFIEDS => Wanted => Topic started by: kent10sne1 on November 13, 2012, 12:32:50 PM
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Ok, using my rig. it has 33's (not swapping them so dont even go down that path..) already got a wicked front bumper, lights.. as david puts it.. Lickeys and chew-es , im looking for what you would do.
if thats all you had. for say the nxt year. what would you do?
*update. all u have is 500. also assume your me and have little to know garage exp, or tools. .. dont just assume i can install an engine all by my self. ..
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This should be good...
Why not sell the 33's and get 35's? Because it is a daily driver? Won't cost you much.
$500 = budget boost lift and a lunch box locker
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk-suspension-651.html
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This should be good...
Why not sell the 33's and get 35's? Because it is a daily driver? Won't cost you much.
$500 = budget boost lift and a lunch box locker
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk-suspension-651.html
and who is going to install the lift and lockers? the easter bunny? i cant even install my own lights! so ur saying i could get a lift u linked and lunch box locker all for 500 (INSTALLED)..
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Well, the JKs have a notorious weakness of the shifter linkage cable being connected on each end by a plastic bushing. I have seen my buddies rig break it so many times he carries 5-10 spare bushings in his glove box. Online, I have read of folks getting stuck in 4-lo because the cable lets loose at the wrong time. Since my JK is also my daily driver, and I have no mechanical skills; I recently decided to have Advance Adapter's upgrade ordered. Danny and gang will be installing it for me this coming Monday. Installed, the replacement linkage is $416. I thought this important enough to be my first upgrade, but I'll be curious to see what others think. Here is a link to the upgrade kit:
http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/heavy-duty-jk-cable-shifter-upgrade/
That's how I spent my $500.00, I hope it helps.
Dave
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Front locker for sure some kind of small lift to give you more wheel/tire travel
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and who is going to install the lift and lockers? the easter bunny? i cant even install my own lights! so ur saying i could get a lift u linked and lunch box locker all for 500 (INSTALLED)..
No...I think that is just the price to buy the components.
Lift - around 200 - 250 for a BB
Lunchbox Locker - 250 - 300
Install would likely double that price.
Lockers make a HUGE difference.
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You can find budget boost used on Craigslist all the time and save a good bit
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This should be good...
Why not sell the 33's and get 35's? Because it is a daily driver? Won't cost you much.
$500 = budget boost lift and a lunch box locker
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk-suspension-651.html
and who is going to install the lift and lockers? the easter bunny? i cant even install my own lights! so ur saying i could get a lift u linked and lunch box locker all for 500 (INSTALLED)..
Lift I posted is $219 and can be installed with a jack, jack stands, and a basic set of tools.
The lunch box locker is about $250 and can be done in the drive way, and will require some sealant and gear oil at about $40,
so I'm a little over at $509.
I'm betting if you buy beer you would get some guys to help around here lol.
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This should be good...
Why not sell the 33's and get 35's? Because it is a daily driver? Won't cost you much.
$500 = budget boost lift and a lunch box locker
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk-suspension-651.html
and who is going to install the lift and lockers? the easter bunny? i cant even install my own lights! so ur saying i could get a lift u linked and lunch box locker all for 500 (INSTALLED)..
Lift I posted is $219 and can be installed with a jack, jack stands, and a basic set of tools.
The lunch box locker is about $250 and can be done in the drive way, and will require some sealant and gear oil at about $40,
so I'm a little over at $509.
I'm betting if you buy beer you would get some guys to help around here lol.
Now your talking. see. i knew you could make it work. lol
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Tony and myself installed my locker. You can even install a budget boost easy. You can rent the spring compressor tool free at Auto Zone.
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This should be good...
Why not sell the 33's and get 35's? Because it is a daily driver? Won't cost you much.
$500 = budget boost lift and a lunch box locker
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk-suspension-651.html
and who is going to install the lift and lockers? the easter bunny? i cant even install my own lights! so ur saying i could get a lift u linked and lunch box locker all for 500 (INSTALLED)..
You ask your trusted friends here for help. You supply the beer & food.
My vote is front lunchbox locker & some sort of sliders(Used) to fit the budget.
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Good call Matt on the sliders
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Yes, sliders would be next on my list... used FTW
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the other big issue is "Friends" dont have many of those , i generally have to $$ ppl just to talk to me. im so mean and crusty. //OLDSKOOL//
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the other big issue is "Friends" dont have many of those , i generally have to $$ ppl just to talk to me. im so mean and crusty. //OLDSKOOL//
Your running up a mighty tab here.
</BEER/> = New friends
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If you are wanting to go the Budget Boost route, check these out...
Budget boost $130
http://tal4x4.com/zone-offroad-products-2in-suspension-lift-kit-jeep-wrangler/j2203
I say you wheel a little longer with open diffs to get a better feel for your rig!
Check out the smittybilt winch give or take $300
http://www.smittybiltdepot.com/Smittybilt-Winches-and-Winch-Accessories/XRC8-8-000-lb-Winch.aspx?t_c=18&t_s=300&t_pt=100702&t_pn=S%2fB97281
You now have $100 to spend...
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the other big issue is "Friends" dont have many of those , i generally have to $$ ppl just to talk to me. im so mean and crusty. //OLDSKOOL//
Your running up a mighty tab here.
</BEER/> = New friends
Davids dad should be my friend, i sent him home from Windrock with about 1/2 case of beer. {cheers2}
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Texsun, you are right. Wheel it, get a feel for it and learn the vehicle. It will make you that much better when you do go to lockers and more lift. Take a look at Ryan and his driving. Open open and does it all! I would get some under armor, sliders and a BB would be all you need to run 37's on a JK. I speak from expirience when I say this... save those pennies and spend it wisely when you get. Little pieces here and there never get you far ;D
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Texsun, you are right. Wheel it, get a feel for it and learn the vehicle. It will make you that much better when you do go to lockers and more lift. Take a look at Ryan and his driving. Open open and does it all! I would get some under armor, sliders and a BB would be all you need to run 37's on a JK. I speak from expirience when I say this... save those pennies and spend it wisely when you get. Little pieces here and there never get you far ;D
I watched Ryan alot, he was in front of me most of sat. so i watched his lines. he is lifted, but still i saw and even tried some of his lines. i need to nxt time when someone is being spotted, just get closer and listen more and pay attention..
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I'd say sliders and budget boost
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Put the money in a saving account (or under the mattress) and wheel it as-is a while longer.
Sliders would be my first choice otherwise.
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Sliders used on CL. Probably could find some Rubicon take off's (call the dealers as well and 4x4 shops around dealers) to see if they got used sliders.
A locker would be a good option only if you plan to keep the D30 and no move up to a 44 front.
Oil pan skid plate would be another good investment. You land on a rock the wrong way and puncture the pan and your day is DONE. No limping that home (speaking to you too Ben {popcorn} ).
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Jay bought some new Rubi rail takeoffs for $100 I think. May want to check on where he found them.
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Jerm, I know!
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LUNCHBOXLOCKERFTW
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Jay bought some new Rubi rail takeoffs for $100 I think. May want to check on where he found them.
Craigslist ftw
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well, i have keep my eyes open on CL for sliders, but not seen any. and i called the dealership. before windrock one.. i forget , had one, but they wanted like 230+ for it. dang.. bit on the high side for me
plus, i really did not see the need yet for them...
Lockers... because of the cost and install, im putting them a bit down the list. above the lift, but i guess I am leaning to fixing what bothers me the most. since my driving on a standard is still in a learning
process.. working the clutch to be smooth etc... im prob. going to start with.
1. control arm protection..
2. oil/tran protection..
3. budget lift with shocks... 2 - 3 inch max.. leaning toward the 2 or 2 1/2 inch.. i already have bumpstops... installed by allshouth.
4. front lunch box lockers
5. sliders... (this would move up if i could find some for 100 or under.. still looking)
I stated in another post. the winch would be nice, but i pretty much never go out without anyone that does not have one.. ...
i can do 1 and 2 i think on my own. im guessing i dont even need to jack the jeep up... 3 will take some beer and some friends.. as i know nothing about that... and 4 well again, maybe i can find some friend that has the tools and know how. or Danny could give me a good quote on this.. who knows....
this is where im leaning. atm anymore advice. keep it comming. input is good, i like the discussion, helps me understand... all this..
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Kent, if u land on a large rock under the door, it will bend the tub, sometimes bad because the sheet metal is so thin on JK's. Could have easily happened at Windrock or Gulches. i was on mine a lot leading without a spotter. So u want to be active looking for those sliders. Deals can be found.
Search JKO and JK-Forum and post wanted threads.
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JK 4'' lift
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/3401342916.html
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JK 2.5'' lift
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/pts/3370523570.html
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anymore advice. keep it comming. input is good, i like the discussion, helps me understand... all this..
aftermarket Dif covers...your differentials are low and ripe for getting busted open. Many brands to choose from and they all work about 100X better than stock. Solid, Poison Spyder, Riddler are some to look at.
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Alot of times you can find the SOLID brand on sale and it both axles for the price of one of the others.
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ok just gonna throw this idea out there, the diff covers and sliders and oil pan shoild be first but after that start buying tools I know you said you don't know how to do much as far as working on your jeep but you would be surprised at what you can do with the right tools (no I'm not talking about a bf hammer and a block of wood) buy a repair manual for your jeep too. the best way to do it is get in there and get your hands dirty. as far as your lunchbox locker goes when you get ready to do it let me know I'll be glad to help teach you how to do it well I will help but theres nothing like working on your own rig to give you a big boost of pride when you get done
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theres nothing like working on your own rig to give you a big boost of pride when you get done
thanks., this is what im looking for. and thanks for the offer to help. im guessing im going to get the diff. covers first. Danny showed me a nice lift, in one of his replys i think i have a plan. i guess changing your diff. fluid. is easy, like the oil. do i need jack stand. or do i need to jack it up for the diff stuff.. and i guess when ur changing the diff oil is when u put the new covers on?
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theres nothing like working on your own rig to give you a big boost of pride when you get done
thanks., this is what im looking for. and thanks for the offer to help. im guessing im going to get the diff. covers first. Danny showed me a nice lift, in one of his replys i think i have a plan. i guess changing your diff. fluid. is easy, like the oil. do i need jack stand. or do i need to jack it up for the diff stuff.. and i guess when ur changing the diff oil is when u put the new covers on?
Changing out the dif covers and fluid is easy, lots of writeups on the interweb for you.
jack stands and a good floor jack will really help you out with a lot of stuff you will do under the jeep. Harbor Freight has good deals on these. Get 6 ton jack stands for their height.
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Harbor freight is good for almost every tool that does not have a motor in it (get quality drills, impact drivers from Makita, Milwaukee, Dewalt)...I agree that their 6 ton jack stands and jacks are awesome!
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If u replace the front diff cover, save some time and money and install the lunch box locker.
Whats the best deal out there these days for a D30 guys?
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thanks., this is what im looking for. and thanks for the offer to help. im guessing im going to get the diff. covers first. Danny showed me a nice lift, in one of his replys i think i have a plan. i guess changing your diff. fluid. is easy, like the oil. do i need jack stand. or do i need to jack it up for the diff stuff.. and i guess when ur changing the diff oil is when u put the new covers on?
Easy as pie. No jacks needed
1. take off fill plug
2. remove drain plug (you can just unbolt the cover but drain first will make it less mess)
3. take out all of the bolts holding the cover on except the top bolt, loosen it
4. use a screwdriver, 5 in 1, something with an edge and a hammer to get between the diff cover and axle housing to release the adhesive. When it lets go that top bolt that you left on, but loose, will keep the cover from falling
5. remove cover. clean the adhesive off of the cover and axle housing and then spray all of the gears with brake cleaner to remove any dirt.
6. apply adhesive to the diff cover, put back on axle housing and put all bolts back in.
7. put in drain plug </LMAO/>
8. fill with oil till it comes out the top and replace fill plug.
*Note. Some aftermarket diff covers move the dill plug location higher and you will need to find out their recommended fluid ammount. Google is your friend
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Anyone got any info on these...
I saw these.. anyone have any comments, according to the jeep/dealerships. u can get them installed for 115.60 thats part + install .
659730RR Factory Diff. Cover Protector w/ Jeep Logo - Half Cover Series JK and other Dana 30 Jeep Front Axles
659744RR Factory Diff. Cover Protector w/ Jeep Logo - Half Cover Series JK and other Dana 44 Jeep Front/Rear Axles
http://www.mopar.com/shop/lift-kits/differential-covers/ (http://www.mopar.com/shop/lift-kits/differential-covers/)
http://www.palmerdodgegeorgia.com/parts-accessories/shop.htm?PID=&StyleID= (http://www.palmerdodgegeorgia.com/parts-accessories/shop.htm?PID=&StyleID=)
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj315/kent10s/jeep-half-cover.jpg)
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$115 each or both for 115? It's it 115 each you could buy rugged ridge front and rear for $125 (look for better price) and DIY
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RIOI4
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$115 each or both for 115? It's it 115 each you could buy rugged ridge front and rear for $125 (look for better price) and DIY
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RIOI4
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i saw them. when i log onto amazon , its telling me that part does not fit my 2012 jeep wrangler? WTF
115 each. i did not see the amazon. just wanting it to fit. and i was wondering if these are worth it. they are cheaper than the PS, not as pretty, but wanting to know if they
would protect sufficently vs buying a whole cover?
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Kent
Those covers may give you the same protection as a full replacement cover,not entirely sure. You would have to compare it to an aftermarket cover to really know.
A full cover will really offer your the best protection and don't have to be as expensive as the Poison Spyder's.
Here is the Solid brand and it is a very reasonable price and SUPER heavy duty:
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Solid-Axle-Ind.-D44-Differential-Cover-p-2676.html (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Solid-Axle-Ind.-D44-Differential-Cover-p-2676.html)
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thanks. im must confused asto. the full covers/replacements, vs the guards or 1/2's i saw some guards, , i guess u dont replace the fluid, u just un screw the bottom nuts, lay the guard over the top and mount? the install on the guards says 30min.
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A number of these covers have fitment issues with the tie rod on the front. Poison Spyder has resolved it, but not sure about others.
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A number of these covers have fitment issues with the tie rod on the front. Poison Spyder has resolved it, but not sure about others.
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Im prob. going to go with the PS , just wanting to understand all options.. :hlp etc...
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thanks. im must confused asto. the full covers/replacements, vs the guards or 1/2's i saw some guards, , i guess u dont replace the fluid, u just un screw the bottom nuts, lay the guard over the top and mount? the install on the guards says 30min.
You are correct. The guards just require the bolts to be taken out and then put back in with the guard in place. The cover requires a full diff fluid change.
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A number of these covers have fitment issues with the tie rod on the front. Poison Spyder has resolved it, but not sure about others.
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Bobby runs the SOLiD covers, no fitment issues with his tie rod that I have noticed. He can chime in to say for sure.
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A number of these covers have fitment issues with the tie rod on the front. Poison Spyder has resolved it, but not sure about others.
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Factory tie rod? Some hit at full turn. My TJ did and we gound it down to clear. Not the best choice.
Bobby runs the SOLiD covers, no fitment issues with his tie rod that I have noticed. He can chime in to say for sure.
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Solid works fine no rubbing at all
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Solid works fine no rubbing at all
Which tie rod are u running?
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Solid works fine no rubbing at all
Which tie rod are u running?
Factory
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http://www.jk-forum.com/jk-bumpers-armor-114/2dr-rubicon-stock-sliders-254058/ (http://www.jk-forum.com/jk-bumpers-armor-114/2dr-rubicon-stock-sliders-254058/)
2dr sliders $125 in Charlotte.
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These photos from JKO have me convinced you should protect that thin sheet metal as soon as u can.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/18/e4ezate4.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/18/y8yzebar.jpg)
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One thing I didn't notice you had listed is an evap skid. At the cost of a new evap and how low they hang, I would suggest getting a skid for that first. That thing should come from the factory with a skid. I went with a basic Rugged Ridge skid for the evap, my skid is gouged and even has a slight bow in it. That is just proof that it works. If I didn't have that, I would have been out several hundred bucks, a few times with a busted up evap canister. The RR skid was under $100 bucks and installed with very basic hand tools in about 15-20 minutes. That was good bang for the buck.
Rocker protection.. a must! If you can get better than the stock Rubicon, I would say go for it! Here is a pic of my Right side where the rock missed my Rubi skid, I'm very happy I didn't have my doors on that day.
(http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/gint2/2011-7-15%20to%2017%20-%20GulcheFest/IMG_0510.jpg)
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I have some amazon gift cards. i guess i could get this http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-76635-Textured-Black-Classic/dp/B003EOXJ4S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3HFRG9RVOF7MS&coliid=IJSQ0EW4UGYMF (http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-76635-Textured-Black-Classic/dp/B003EOXJ4S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3HFRG9RVOF7MS&coliid=IJSQ0EW4UGYMF) would that do me for a while?
Smittybilt 76635 SRC Textured Black Classic Rock Rails, Pair
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I have some amazon gift cards. i guess i could get this http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-76635-Textured-Black-Classic/dp/B003EOXJ4S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3HFRG9RVOF7MS&coliid=IJSQ0EW4UGYMF (http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-76635-Textured-Black-Classic/dp/B003EOXJ4S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3HFRG9RVOF7MS&coliid=IJSQ0EW4UGYMF) would that do me for a while?
Smittybilt 76635 SRC Textured Black Classic Rock Rails, Pair
I think I would go for the Rubicon Rock Rail before that Smittybuilt one. They would be cheaper and they do work for hits coming from the bottom and on the low side. Neither would have totally prevented hits like shown in Doug's pictures, but they may have helped. To really prevent hits on the lower tub you'll need a true rock rail.
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I have some amazon gift cards. i guess i could get this http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-76635-Textured-Black-Classic/dp/B003EOXJ4S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3HFRG9RVOF7MS&coliid=IJSQ0EW4UGYMF (http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-76635-Textured-Black-Classic/dp/B003EOXJ4S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3HFRG9RVOF7MS&coliid=IJSQ0EW4UGYMF) would that do me for a while?
Smittybilt 76635 SRC Textured Black Classic Rock Rails, Pair
I think I would go for the Rubicon Rock Rail before that Smittybuilt one. They would be cheaper and they do work for hits coming from the bottom and on the low side. Neither would have totally prevented hits like shown in Doug's pictures, but they may have helped. To really prevent hits on the lower tub you'll need a true rock rail.
i see, but i CANT use my amazon gift cards on the rubi rock rails. {rtft} just say'en. //OLDSKOOL// but i understand, maybe i could use those giftcards on some skid plates or something..?
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They have some used psc knockers on JKO for sale for $200. (same as Tonys, but for a 2dr)
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They have some used psc knockers on JKO for sale for $200. (same as Tonys, but for a 2dr)
JKO? is that a form? do u have a link?
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jkowners.com
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Kent, you should read all u can on jkowners.com. all about JK's and a ton of info.
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http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84881 (http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84881)
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Update....
Ok, I may be getting a winch. , i also have some basic rock rails Smittybilt 76635 SRC Textured Black Classic Rock Rails i should have them by this weekend.. the winch may take longer..
also, i may have come into some cash, so maybe a LunchBoxLocker for my front would be coming soon?
I want to wait on the lift a bit, as im still not 100% sure if i want 2.5 or 3.5 lift, and when i do, im going to also want to do a quality stearing stablilzer upgrade, new disconects.. lifting seems to me more than
just slaping on springs/shocks. etc... and like most of u guys have said, i still need to wheel alot more and understand my rig better..
the rock rails will offer some protection, i already have the front 30 PS diff cover , and a winch coming. i think those things are all good, investments at this point.
just not sure about the front lunchbox locker. maybe Danny could PM me a quote on part + install on something like that, ...
the wheels would be nice to go to 35's or even 37's but seeing how my 33's are still pretty new, and they where already a 1400 investment. for all 5 including the wheels. im prob. going to stick with them
until i NEED to replace them..
keep the comments comming. i love the advice.
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I thought you had the jks discos already? They should be good for *some* lift. The tj ones offer a pretty wide range like stock to 3 or 4 inches...I think.