Georgia Trail Riders Forum
MEMBERS DISCUSSION AREA => General Discussion => Topic started by: BigMike on July 02, 2017, 09:06:33 PM
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The garage on my house has to be the smallest 2 car garage ever. I have a 1 acre lot in a subdivision and I'm checking into building a detached 2 car garage. It's going to be tight getting it though the HOA but I'm me and know people. Probably be 24x26 but have to figure a way to make it tall enough for a lift while keeping it conforming to the same look as the house without killing the budget. Because it will definitely be a budget project. Slated for next year. Even the wife is on board. It has to be detached because of sewer easements. I'm thinking of having the slab done and building it myself. Also getting turn key prices. If anyone knows good and reasonable contractors, let me know.
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Looks like you are encroaching into the side yard setback. That is not an HOA issue, that's a city of Roswell/Fulton Co issue.
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Looks like you are encroaching into the side yard setback. That is not an HOA issue, that's a city of Roswell/Fulton Co issue.
Not sure yet. That ARC line, I believe, is to base other measurements from. If you notice the left front corner of the house is 17' from the property line. Same with the garage placement.
I have a lot of homework to do. The concrete guy came out today to give me a price on a side pad for the driveway. Since the garage will be on a hill, he said there will have to be a 3 sided retaining wall (which I knew). His guestimate for the foundation was $17k to $19k. That right there kills the whole project. But I'm also going to have some contractors give me a turn key price. The concrete guy kept going on about needing a Civil Engineer, Structural Engineer, and a list of other things. I let him talk but thinking, dude, I just want a guess as to what the concrete pad will cost. I'll have everything in order and approved before I begin.
He's charging me $2200 for the parking pad. $200 of that is removing the sod and grading the area. I was figuring $1700 without the sod removal and grading. I told him to go ahead because it is such a PITA meeting contractors and this old guy has been in business 43 years. Said he pays his guys $28/hr. They start next week.
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Make sure you have your permits etc in hand before starting. City o Atlanta just made a neighbor remove part of his driveway due to something the builder did by adding an additional parking pad. Neighbor decided to gravel it to to comply with pervious surface regulations. Looks like crap now. But he's in compliance.
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Sell the house, buy a lot that will accommodate the house and garage you want.
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Sell the house, buy a lot that will accommodate the house and garage you want.
In 8 years when I retire. Staying put for now.
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Sell the house, buy a lot that will accommodate the house and garage you want.
In 8 years when I retire. Staying put for now.
No kids?
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Part of your equation will be how much to "invest" if you're looking forward to resale. My attached build was ~25% of the existing value of the house at the time. I do expect to get most of that back when we sell eventually, although it will be in inflated $. Probably not wise to spend more than that. I did go a "bit" overboard by having the second story habitable, which added a good 15% or more the overall cost.
I was the general contractor on my project meaning I pulled the permits. I hired a builder to oversee and use his subs, and I paid as we went along. Being as it was 2008, I had no trouble at all getting workers. Dumpster and porta-potty in the driveway for several months was a bit of a downer. Lesson learned - don't let workers dump their lunch garbage in the dumpster.
I did some of the work, mainly drilling studs, pulling wire, wiring outlets, and installing all the lighting and garage door openers. My wife did all the interior paint. I'd estimate our work as about 15-20% savings.
My slab at 25x30 is only slightly larger than yours, but since there's a stairway at the back the downstairs space is similar. 4" thick slab is plenty for a lift.
I needed to pay an architect for plans in order to satisfy the HOA, and the front had to be brick to match the house. Other three sides are Hardiboard.
You're welcome to come over and look at mine if you want some ideas.
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Part of your equation will be how much to "invest" if you're looking forward to resale. My attached build was ~25% of the existing value of the house at the time. I do expect to get most of that back when we sell eventually, although it will be in inflated $. Probably not wise to spend more than that. I did go a "bit" overboard by having the second story habitable, which added a good 15% or more the overall cost.
I was the general contractor on my project meaning I pulled the permits. I hired a builder to oversee and use his subs, and I paid as we went along. Being as it was 2008, I had no trouble at all getting workers. Dumpster and porta-potty in the driveway for several months was a bit of a downer. Lesson learned - don't let workers dump their lunch garbage in the dumpster.
I did some of the work, mainly drilling studs, pulling wire, wiring outlets, and installing all the lighting and garage door openers. My wife did all the interior paint. I'd estimate our work as about 15-20% savings.
My slab at 25x30 is only slightly larger than yours, but since there's a stairway at the back the downstairs space is similar. 4" thick slab is plenty for a lift.
I needed to pay an architect for plans in order to satisfy the HOA, and the front had to be brick to match the house. Other three sides are Hardiboard.
You're welcome to come over and look at mine if you want some ideas.
Thanks for the insight Kirk. I've been to your garage 2 or 3 times. I'd like to get the ceiling that high but not sure the HOA will approve it. I'm already pushing it since the covenants say you have to have 1 acre to put a detached building and I only actually have .92. Hoping they will make an exception.
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Looks like you are encroaching into the side yard setback. That is not an HOA issue, that's a city of Roswell/Fulton Co issue.
Not sure yet. That ARC line, I believe, is to base other measurements from. If you notice the left front corner of the house is 17' from the property line. Same with the garage placement.
I have a lot of homework to do. The concrete guy came out today to give me a price on a side pad for the driveway. Since the garage will be on a hill, he said there will have to be a 3 sided retaining wall (which I knew). His guestimate for the foundation was $17k to $19k. That right there kills the whole project. But I'm also going to have some contractors give me a turn key price. The concrete guy kept going on about needing a Civil Engineer, Structural Engineer, and a list of other things. I let him talk but thinking, dude, I just want a guess as to what the concrete pad will cost. I'll have everything in order and approved before I begin.
He's charging me $2200 for the parking pad. $200 of that is removing the sod and grading the area. I was figuring $1700 without the sod removal and grading. I told him to go ahead because it is such a PITA meeting contractors and this old guy has been in business 43 years. Said he pays his guys $28/hr. They start next week.
Please run from that guy. My garage pad was 5800 and it's 30x40 with an 8 foot x 30 foot "ramp" in front. When i built my big Cnc shop in 2012 it was 17000. That included two sides w 3 foot walls and the other side with a wall that tapered down to nothing. This included 2x2 rebar grid 8" thick with 4000 psi concrete w fiber. Oh and it's 40x60. My neighbor just built a 30x40 and has right at 45k in it complete.
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Looks like you are encroaching into the side yard setback. That is not an HOA issue, that's a city of Roswell/Fulton Co issue.
Not sure yet. That ARC line, I believe, is to base other measurements from. If you notice the left front corner of the house is 17' from the property line. Same with the garage placement.
I have a lot of homework to do. The concrete guy came out today to give me a price on a side pad for the driveway. Since the garage will be on a hill, he said there will have to be a 3 sided retaining wall (which I knew). His guestimate for the foundation was $17k to $19k. That right there kills the whole project. But I'm also going to have some contractors give me a turn key price. The concrete guy kept going on about needing a Civil Engineer, Structural Engineer, and a list of other things. I let him talk but thinking, dude, I just want a guess as to what the concrete pad will cost. I'll have everything in order and approved before I begin.
He's charging me $2200 for the parking pad. $200 of that is removing the sod and grading the area. I was figuring $1700 without the sod removal and grading. I told him to go ahead because it is such a PITA meeting contractors and this old guy has been in business 43 years. Said he pays his guys $28/hr. They start next week.
Please run from that guy. My garage pad was 5800 and it's 30x40 with an 8 foot x 30 foot "ramp" in front. When i built my big Cnc shop in 2012 it was 17000. That included two sides w 3 foot walls and the other side with a wall that tapered down to nothing. This included 2x2 rebar grid 8" thick with 4000 psi concrete w fiber. Oh and it's 40x60. My neighbor just built a 30x40 and has right at 45k in it complete.
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Thanks Sam. I figured he was full of shit.
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Had the driveway extension dine today. Will be able to pull onto the parking pad without driving on the grass. They graded it, relocated a sprinkler head and had to work around a controller box. They used the sod they took up and placed it along the edge they dug up for the forms. Happy with the work.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170710/dd43c4004b8ed24d8ced1897309da363.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170710/c185e8bac136527e3c455fe09d12ab77.jpg)
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Looks good. I need to do that with 4 drivers.
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Looks good. I need to do that with 4 drivers.
Got tired of moving cars around since my brother in law moved in.
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While not exactly what I really want, it would fill the need of housing the Jeep and Harley for the next 8 years until we sell. I could put it at the back of the property.
COSTCO
https://www.costco.com/.product.100364050.html?&EMID=B2C_2017_0731_1272_3DaysHotBuys
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While not exactly what I really want, it would fill the need of housing the Jeep and Harley for the next 8 years until we sell. I could put it at the back of the property.
COSTCO
https://www.costco.com/.product.100364050.html?&EMID=B2C_2017_0731_1272_3DaysHotBuys
Do you currently park the jeep outside? And is this primarily just for storage?
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While not exactly what I really want, it would fill the need of housing the Jeep and Harley for the next 8 years until we sell. I could put it at the back of the property.
COSTCO
https://www.costco.com/.product.100364050.html?&EMID=B2C_2017_0731_1272_3DaysHotBuys (https://www.costco.com/.product.100364050.html?&EMID=B2C_2017_0731_1272_3DaysHotBuys)
Do you currently park the jeep outside? And is this primarily just for storage?
I park in the garage and with the Yukon in there and my Harley, it's very very tight. My wife offered to park in the driveway and give me the whole garage, but I told her I'm moving the Jeep (DD) to the driveway, but will take her side of the garage when I have the top off overnight. When I get a DD and the Jeep becomes a pleasure vehicle, I don't want all that stuff in the driveway. So I need to come up with a solution.
First world problems for sure.
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Check if HOA covenants allow outbuildings that large. Mine doesn't.
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Check if HOA covenants allow outbuildings that large. Mine doesn't.
I still want my 24x26x12 garage.
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Garage goals.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170801/d994caff6c094f879b17aaf510bb0c5f.png)
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I figured I would post a few pics now that my pole barn/garage is finished. It's started life as a 30x40 pole shed and has morphed into a nice little area. It has taken several years to get it to this point. Some highlights include. 12 foot ceilings to accommodate the lift. 200 amp service. 3 ton ductless mini split ac and heat.
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Ridiculous. Sweetly ridiculous.
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Very nice sam!!!
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Nicely done.
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Very nice... I have the space for one, just not the money yet.
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Did you space the lift columns to allow the trailer to go between? I didn't and regret that. It would be useful lifting heavy stuff on and off the trailer.
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Did you space the lift columns to allow the trailer to go between? I didn't and regret that. It would be useful lifting heavy stuff on and off the trailer.
The post are wide enough but the arms aren't. I guess I could raise them above the trailer and then back in.
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What a.c. unit? I'm considering the same type for my garage
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What a.c. unit? I'm considering the same type for my garage
It's a trane 3 ton ductless minisplit. I was really surprised how well it cooled it down.
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What a.c. unit? I'm considering the same type for my garage
It's a trane 3 ton ductless minisplit. I was really surprised how well it cooled it down.
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What goes on the other side of the wall? Got a pic?
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I will post a pic tomorrow.
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Very Nice Sam!
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What size are those doors?
Super special extra insulated?
Anything special to seal them everytime they close?
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What size are those doors?
Super special extra insulated?
Anything special to seal them everytime they close?
They are 12 wide x 11 tall. Big mistake on my part was buying non insulated doors. I've got my garage door guy coming out next week to insulate them.
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Awesome man! Post pic of jeep on trailer in there! Jealous
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Awesome man! Post pic of jeep on trailer in there! Jealous
This one? This pic shows my lack of planning and thinking ahead. Had I made the building 10 feet longer I could've gotten the truck and trailer in there with the doors closed.
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Door envy - mine are only 10x10, (but they are insulated)
Advance planning would be out the window as soon as you bought a longer trailer or truck.
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Door envy - mine are only 10x10, (but they are insulated)
Advance planning would be out the window as soon as you bought a longer trailer or truck.
The non insulated doors were a big mistake on my part. The garage door guy says they make a kit that makes them as insulated as a factory insulated door and they look factory. We will see.
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I also have a mini-split AC, only 2 tons as the space is smaller than yours. It's on the wall opposite the doors and high up, and does an excellent job. I generally turn it on about 15 minutes before I want to work in the shop.
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Door envy - mine are only 10x10, (but they are insulated)
Advance planning would be out the window as soon as you bought a longer trailer or truck.
The non insulated doors were a big mistake on my part. The garage door guy says they make a kit that makes them as insulated as a factory insulated door and they look factory. We will see.
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Did you talk to someone when you ordered them? They should have asked.
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Door envy - mine are only 10x10, (but they are insulated)
Advance planning would be out the window as soon as you bought a longer trailer or truck.
The non insulated doors were a big mistake on my part. The garage door guy says they make a kit that makes them as insulated as a factory insulated door and they look factory. We will see.
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Did you talk to someone when you ordered them? They should have asked.
Oh yea I had zero intentions of insulating the building or doing ac. I thought I would just work in there and be fine. It was so stinkin hot after I got it dried in I knew I had to do something.
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How about wall/ceiling insulation?
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How about wall/ceiling insulation?
R19 in the walls and r38 in the ceiling.
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What a.c. unit? I'm considering the same type for my garage
It's a trane 3 ton ductless minisplit. I was really surprised how well it cooled it down.
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What goes on the other side of the wall? Got a pic?
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Awesome man! Post pic of jeep on trailer in there! Jealous
This one? This pic shows my lack of planning and thinking ahead. Had I made the building 10 feet longer I could've gotten the truck and trailer in there with the doors closed.
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Looks great. You can always punch a hole in the back and add a shed roof addition to get 10 more feet.
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Door envy - mine are only 10x10, (but they are insulated)
Advance planning would be out the window as soon as you bought a longer trailer or truck.
The non insulated doors were a big mistake on my part. The garage door guy says they make a kit that makes them as insulated as a factory insulated door and they look factory. We will see.
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Yes they do. No big deal at all. When I was building homes we did it as upgrades all the time for home owners.
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