Georgia Trail Riders Forum
CLASSIFIEDS => Suspension & Steering => Topic started by: mrmike1964 on May 20, 2013, 04:39:36 PM
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How dose Hydro Steering help? Will it take the bump steering away? I just took Casper for a ride and can't keep it on the road when I hit a pump. With the lift I have I had to get a much longer pitmen arm so now I'm trying to find a way to take some of the stress off that arm. Can anyone help me understand what I can do or need to fix this?
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Check that trackbar angle and draglink angle are close to equal. If not you may need to modify trackbar mount.
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No, hydro will not fix it. It's caused by bad suspension geometry. The drag ling and the track bar must be in parallel or else bump steer (and if you have coil springs death wobble can ensue) can occur. If you lower the drag link by a drop pittman arm, so must the track bar be lowered to remain in parallel.
http://www.naxja.org/html/techarticles/bumpsteertech.htm
Also read about the ackermann angle.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
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Thanks for the Info it helps a lot. here's a couple pics of what I have. It looks like the pitmen arm is hitting the tierod the paint is rubbing off. I guess I need a shorter pitmen arm.
[attachment deleted by admin - older than 465 days]
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track bar on a CJ?
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I'm not sure what it is called I always thought it was called a tierod. Its the link that ties the two wheels together. I hope I can get this worked out soon. It's killing me I want to drive it.
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I'm not sure what it is called I always thought it was called a tierod. Its the link that ties the two wheels together. I hope I can get this worked out soon. It's killing me I want to drive it.
Mike, the part you are referring to as a tie rod, is the tie rod. TC was questioning the suggestions make regarding a Track Bar, which a CJ does not have.
I would suggest getting a different Pitman arm, one that will clear the tie rod and then re assess the situation. No matter the cause of your bump steer, you need a different pitman arm.
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Thanks I'll see what I can find. The 6" was to high and the bar hit under the leaf spring so I got a 10" for a ford and just recut the spline hole so it would fit to the gear box. I'll have to get a 8" dropped pitmen arm.
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just make sure the 8" wont hit the springs when flexed.
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The two bars are not suppose to hit. If they do it hard enough, you will break them and lets hope that your still alive after it does a few flips.
"The farther the drag link is from parallel with the ground, the greater your bump steer will be. As others have said, how to correct it depends on what axles you're running.
If you actually are running SOA, PLUS 4" lift springs, you might want to think about going to flatter springs."
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Here is the best suggestion that I have found, flip the tre's.
http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f19/bump-steer-10884/
This will get your drag link the flattest.
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Thanks Mortalis5509 for the info I will try the flip the tre's. Just ordered them.
http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm
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Now I'm thinking to could make a set before they get here. I'll have to order the tapered milling bit today but I know it will be here first thing in the Am.