Georgia Trail Riders Forum
MEMBERS DISCUSSION AREA => General Discussion => Topic started by: jkDave on January 24, 2014, 07:54:46 AM
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I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 5.2 liter gas engine, and it has a 8100 max towing capacity according to the owner's manual. I found an aluminum trailer that weighs 1350 pounds and a steel trailer that weighs about 2200 pounds. So loaded I think the trailer will be around 6500 for the aluminum trailer and 7350 for the steel one. Beside the weight, the biggest difference is the price, the aluminum trailer is twice the price of the steel one. To tow with a 15 year old truck with 125k miles on it, is the 1000 pound savings worth the extra price?
Thanks!
Dave
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Rated towing capacity has a pretty large safety factor built in, and there's not a huge amount of steep hill towing around here. You should be good as long as the truck is in good shape. If it has an auto transmission I'd get a cooler for it if it doesn't have one. That's regardless of which trailer you choose.
Be prepared for crappy gas mileage when towing.
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Dave, I had the same exact truck until last year when I sold it.
I asked the exact same question to a number of folks. The answers were almost all the same. If the truck is in good shape mechanically, put a trans cooler on it and use some type of load level hitch(possibly with airbags due to the non HD rear suspension) and you would be good to go with either trailer although the lighter the better.
You would need to be easy on the transmission as its not a HD trans but it will work. And as KVom said, you'll get crappy mileage when towing.
I wish I still had my old truck
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I don't know the answer for you. It only costing twice as much is impressive, IIRC from previous searches for a trailer aluminum was about 3x.
If the cost comparison was $0.8K vs $1.6K, with my level of disposable income, I would pay the extra $800 for the lighter weight and theoretically higher resale value in the future. I suspect you are in a price range of $1.8K vs $3.6K, which would probably make me question whether I would do the same thing or just save the money for potential repairs to the truck. Additionally, for the purpose of driving a 4x4 vehicle to a once a month outing, I would take a heavier trailer with brakes on both axles versus a lighter trailer with brakes on one axle. I doubt the extra 800lbs of weight for the trailer will have a long term impact on the reliability of the truck, since they both fall under the max towing guidelines for the truck.
I would also look at Dodge forums to determine the anticipated lifespan of the transmission in that truck, especially when you start towing. I am very skittish with Chrysler transmissions based on seemingly magical ~100K mile transmission repairs needed that I have heard about from several friends with Chrysler products. I am assuming you have an automatic.
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I would also look at Dodge forums to determine the anticipated lifespan of the transmission in that truck, especially when you start towing. I am very skittish with Chrysler transmissions based on seemingly magical ~100K mile transmission repairs needed that I have heard about from several friends with Chrysler products. I am assuming you have an automatic.
Mine went out at about 140K miles, put a rebuilt one in from Chrysler and drove it another 45K miles before I sold it, no trans issues. I towed a fairly light motocross trailer with it probably 25 times a year for 3 years or so.
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Thanks for the advice! It is an automatic, so sounds like I should add the tranny cooler. I was also thinking of adding an extra leaf to the rear springs to boost the suspension a bit.
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Thanks for the advice! It is an automatic, so sounds like I should add the tranny cooler. I was also thinking of adding an extra leaf to the rear springs to boost the suspension a bit.
that would help, or airbags. A good hitch shop can really give you a lot advise on the options. Here in Marietta I went to Pat Rogers Trailer Hitches and they gave real good advice.
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This may be common knowledge to some but if your new to towing. Make sure you only tow in DRIVE, never tow in OD. Especially with a gasser.
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Should be fine.
My Tahoe has 292,000 on it with original transmission and engine., Synthetic oil and trans servicing and towing package from the factory with the extra trans cooler.
I have towed my other JK (6500#) around the Southeast on a steel trailer behind a Z71 4x4 Tahoe with no issues. Electric brakes on both axles make a big difference, and most of all not being in a hurry, and easing up the big hills.
Now I have an aluminum trailer (10,000# GVWR) and towed it to Moab and over the Rockies in 2012. Still tow with it today.
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Holy cow... 292,000 miles on a 4L60E...
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that would help, or airbags. A good hitch shop can really give you a lot advise on the options. Here in Marietta I went to Pat Rogers Trailer Hitches and they gave real good advice.
I agree ^^^ ... I was there this week. Good, knowlegeable folks.
FYI, Pat Rogers has moved from the old spot on Hwy 41 to an out-of-the-way spot in an industrial park off Hwy 41. Guess that Hwy 41 road frontage rent was getting expensive.
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Holy cow... 292,000 miles on a 4L60E...
I'm thankful!
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This was good to read, I have been looking at regular duty trucks for a bit, wanting to make sure I can tow my JKU if buy one.
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This may be common knowledge to some but if your new to towing. Make sure you only tow in DRIVE, never tow in OD. Especially with a gasser.
I had heard that, but thanks for confirming!
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Thanks for the advice! It is an automatic, so sounds like I should add the tranny cooler. I was also thinking of adding an extra leaf to the rear springs to boost the suspension a bit.
that would help, or airbags. A good hitch shop can really give you a lot advise on the options. Here in Marietta I went to Pat Rogers Trailer Hitches and they gave real good advice.
I'll have to make a trip to see them. I don't know anything about the airbag option, so I'll ask him to explain all that to me. Thanks!
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I have airbags on the Tahoe. Coil rear spring, so very easy. Helps keep her level.
$78
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/air-60769/overview/year/2004/make/chevrolet/model/tahoe
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This may be common knowledge to some but if your new to towing. Make sure you only tow in DRIVE, never tow in OD. Especially with a gasser.
I would look at each vehicle on a case by case basis. My old gasser tow pig was made to tow in OD. Fuel injected 454 and 10 mpg loaded or unloaded.
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Don't know if it's been said yet but, just because it's made of aluminum doesn't mean it's lighter than steel. Often the extra metal required to make aluminium meet the same strength negates any weight difference.
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This may be common knowledge to some but if your new to towing. Make sure you only tow in DRIVE, never tow in OD. Especially with a gasser.
I would look at each vehicle on a case by case basis. My old gasser tow pig was made to tow in OD. Fuel injected 454 and 10 mpg loaded or unloaded.
Agree, absolutely case by case, not all created equal. Several HD gassers are made to tow small, medium loads and have suspension, etc to assist.
Just saying most 1500s, F150, V8 SUVs are all gonna want to avoid OD to prolong tranny life. Play it safe. Unless your vehicle is specifically made to do so. They are light duty and usually have light duty trannies equipped.