Georgia Trail Riders Forum
MEMBERS DISCUSSION AREA => General Discussion => Topic started by: Hargy on August 31, 2014, 04:37:46 PM
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Ok This is lame but I will ask anyways cause that's how I roll. I see videos of people either rock crawling or a steep hill. How are they controlling their clutch without burning it up. I know alot of people are using automatics but I've stopped mid way up on a hill and had to step on the clutch, when I engaged the clutch I could smell it burning some. Whats up with that?
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On 4 low you will use 1st on real steep slow crawls and possibly shift to 2nd when you get going a little more. Either way you need to get used to not mess with the clutch much when you are crawling.
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When in 4 low and the appropriate gear, you shouldn't ride the clutch very much at all. I have never smelled my clutch burning on the trail. I did regear to 4.88s, so that is very helpful, but even when I ran 3.07s I never had a problem.
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Starting when nose up on a hill can be tricky. Use e brake to hold while engaging clutch if rolling back is a concern. If no e brake, you can install a line lock.
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For me I find it easiest to simply let the clutch out just a little bit until I feel the driveline enguage. At that point I can release the brake and let the clutch out more to go, or release the brake and just hang on the clutch. Gear choice will also dictate the success of that move. With practice you should be able to release the clutch just enough to hang on the clutch only if needed. I just about never get a burning smell from mine. Remember, a clutch is just the same as brake pads, they are made to slip. Even when completely off the clutch you can get some slippage, not as much as a torque converter but you will get some.
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Those of us with standard transmissions, we are in a special place when wheeling, it can be easy in some ways but harder in others. i have only been at this for 2 years, and its still a skill you need to master. speak with blue Wes, he gave me plenty of pointers that helped.
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Hand throttle works wonders...
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I was going to suggest a hand throttle as well, but I would guess the throttle is electronically controlled on JK's so I don't know how exactly that would work.
I'll keep my automatic. :)
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I was going to suggest a hand throttle as well, but I would guess the throttle is electronically controlled on JK's so I don't know how exactly that would work.
I'll keep my automatic. :)
JK is throttle by wire, electronic. That's one of the reasons they suck
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Yea, that could be a setback when trying to attach the cable to the throttle body arm. How about a line lock? You know with the pushbutton actuated solenoid that locks the brakes when staging at the drag strip. That seems like it would work pretty good. They are designed to hold your car still while your revs are up and clutch slightly engaged and release the brake as soon as you push the button
I agree, I'll stick with 2 pedals...sometimes more is less
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It's a skill, you have to practice to master it. Deeper gears help, but still gotta be smooth. Gotta know exactly where the clutch disengages.
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Two things, regear and aftermarket clutch.
I run 4.88's and a LUK pro gold clutch. You can ride with me and you would never know I have a manual transmission.
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JK's do have an electronic throttle....but some programmers allow you to "idle up" for crawling. Not sure when JK's started doing this but my brake will hold on a hill while I work the clutch and throttle to get moving. A very handy feature both on and off road. In 4-low I very seldom use the clutch. Even on my CJ, without the new bells and whistles, I never "smelled" the clutch. Of course I was younger then and the skinny pedal was always down.
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In 2009 the JK's got the "Hill Assist" feature. You stab the brakes and it engages the brakes for about 10 seconds before releasing them or until you begin to move. I have an '08 so don't benefit from that feature. The key that I find matches what a few others said... deep gearing and good feel for where your clutch begins to grab. As I stated before, you can slowly release the clutch to the point that you preload the drive line, once preloaded, releasing it a bit more with the brakes at the same time will act the same as releasing the brake on an auto and hitting the gas.
There is an electronic hand throttle that is offered by some aftermarket company that can be used. Not sure how well it works.
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It's skill and that's a direct connection to seat time. I ran the stock clutch up until march and never had issues. Replaced with the luk and its the same just the engage is softer, a little more direct and not as high on the clutch pedal.