Georgia Trail Riders Forum
		MEMBERS DISCUSSION AREA => General Discussion => Topic started by: DOUG on December 26, 2014, 05:07:13 PM
		
			
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				This is not my Jeep.  
Be aware of this issue on 2012 and later JKs.
Not sure how close mine gets with a 3.8 but it appears to be much closer on the 3.6s.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/26/63c272481f609f7c2aa9f8793c16886b.jpg)
			 
			
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				Wow that would suck. 
			
 
			
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				from TNT's page for thier truss. 
"** 2012' & Newer Models require 2" additional bumpstopping for proper truss to oil pan clearance**"
so aparently it is a known issue. 
If you truss you'll be loosing the 2" of up travel to the truss.
			 
			
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				What truss and what oil pan skid do you have Doug?
			
 
			
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				Properly check bump stops after suspension and some axle mods. I have seen that a lot lately. Pull the springs a d see if anything hits before the stops catch in, and then remember most bumpstops will still compress so factor that in as well. 
			
 
			
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				That is not my jeep.
I have:
- 09' with 3.8 mini van motor.
- Full set of the River Raider skids
- Rubi 44 front with Artec truss kit
			 
			
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				Looking at the damage to the pan it looks like pushing the axle forward a couple inches would provide the necessary clearance to avoid dropping the bumpstops 2"s
If that happened on the trail that made for a bad recovery.
			 
			
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				Owner heard a click on the trail at compression for months but did not know what it was.  Looked and couldn't locate.  
Tightened everything, replaced joints, didn't see it and it went away.  Must have dented the pan.  Last ride it came back.  
Exiting trail onto hwy and hit a rut and heard it and smelled oil. 
Said bumps had softened and deteriorated allowing the contact.
			 
			
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from TNT's page for thier truss. 
"** 2012' & Newer Models require 2" additional bumpstopping for proper truss to oil pan clearance**"
so aparently it is a known issue. 
If you truss you'll be loosing the 2" of up travel to the truss.
I guess that would depend on the brand skid and truss.
			 
			
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				Side note on bump,stop clearance. I pull the to check full compression. Don't just count on how much you can compress them with a jack. 
			
 
			
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Side note on bump,stop clearance. I pull the spring  to check full compression. Don't just count on how much you can compress them with a jack.
FIFY
So 2" of bumps top should keep it from hitting?  I'm running 3" MC pucks right now.
Additional 2", so 2" than whatever you have pre install of the truss. 
			 
			
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				I don't know what I have I guess a trip to all south for them to give me the scope is in store for the new year. Yikes
			
 
			
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				Flexing may miss it.  Most likely to hit when both fronts hit and compress at the same time.
The 2" is over stock bump stops if you just add a truss with no other suspension changes.  . 
If you lift and install tall tires, they may hit before before the axle, but ideally you want the bump stops to prevent tires and anything from hitting.  Every lift and tire install should include new bump stop chrck and adjustment as necessary.  
			 
			
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				I guess I don't understand this thread.  Are you saying that installing an Artec truss will require more bump stop creating less up-travel?
			
 
			
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I guess I don't understand this thread.  Are you saying that installing an Artec truss will require more bump stop creating less up-travel?
I interpret this thread to state that with the 3.6L engine, any front axle truss should be checked to make sure it does not interfere/interact/interface with the oil pan, especially under full suspension and bumpstop compression.  If the truss will touch the oil pan (or anything else), you should bump stop sufficiently to ensure it does not do so.  
			 
			
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I guess I don't understand this thread.  Are you saying that installing an Artec truss will require more bump stop creating less up-travel?
Can always build a smaller truss.