Georgia Trail Riders Forum
MEMBERS DISCUSSION AREA => General Discussion => Topic started by: big94yj on February 26, 2009, 09:58:29 AM
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yesterday on my way home from school i went to press the brakes ad my foot went to the floor. i ended up coasting to a stop after dogeing about ten cars at a red light... last night i went out and got me new extended braided steel brake lines and installed them last night. but i made a mess with the brake fluid in the engine campartment. i sprayed it out with water... today when i got in my car it started up fine and about a mile down the road i go to miss winners for a chicken biskit. i notice it sounds like its firing funny when i ordered i turned of my car and when i tried to crank it back up it wouldnt start. sounded like it was trying but wouldnt turn over and crank. i pucshed it out of the way but i dont know what it could be... :hlp
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I would be willing to put my money on that you got the dizzy wet. Check to see if you are getting any spark.
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You are bleeding the brakes correct? Got to make sure all the air is out of the lines.
No clue on the crank part...
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Agreed, if you disconnect a brake line YOU MUST BLEED THE BRAKES. Let the engine dry out and try to crank. Brake fluid will eat paint also, so make sure you get that off good.
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i bled the brakwes last night with a little help from my sister... haha the brakes work great now im just waiting for school to get out today to see if it crancks up if it doesnt then i need my buddy to give me ride to work till i can get back and look at it. if the distributer was wet would it take long to dry out?
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Shouldnt. I washed under the hood at a DIY car wash once on my old BII. It was dead for about an hour. :-[
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take ascrew driver and remove the screws on the dist. cap Don't remove the wires there ez to get crossed up. take a rag or paper towl and dry the inside of the cap out. thats all ya gotta do if you get water in the engine bay and it starts skipping won't crank. you can spray a little wd40 in there also. it disperses water
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I am the buddy that gets to take you to work today...Hopefully it will start.
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i got back to my car and tried to crank it and it started right up so i bet it was the distributer being wet. {toast}
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new problem now when i left work my check engine light went back on. i drove home and i could notice again it didnt seem to be firing right and it wasnt accelerating right or and skipping. when it got dark enought i went out side and started it up and looked for any sparks in the plug wires. there was one wire glowing almost and it was connected to the altinator. i waited till the wire coolded down enough to touch and it was loose. iwhen i tried to tighten it the nut and the end of the bold snap right off... i look at it and it seem badly corroided and then i looked at the wire the was a splice near the end of the wire and the medal end was badly corroided aswell. and now it will not start either (again) ive had the worst luck with cars this week.... >:( whats should i do to fix it aor temperarely fix it so i can drive it to a shop... :hlp :hlp :hlp :hlp
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I would replace the alt. and cut the wire back a few inches and splice a new wire on. When a wire doesnt make a good connection it will get very hot a possibly cause a fire. The alt. is easy to change and should be around 100.00. Dont pay a shop 250 to do it.
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do you really think that it could be the altinator thats bad. my battery seem to be fine. im going to replace the wire. could the altinator be making my jeep not run smooth?
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hey richard did i see a post from you saying you got a whole buch a rubber bushings for cars you be willing to get for some one. i need to get a couple for my sawbar some how the bushings fell out of them on a the road some place... {ehm}
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Take the alt. to Advanced or someplace to get tested.
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im thinking it may be a bad fuel injector the way it is running im going to take the alt off and see if i can replace that bolt and nut on it
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if the stud broke off of the alt. then you will need a new one.
I still have some bushings send me a pm with the size and shape. And I will look for some.
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lets see... i put on a new altinator changed my distributer cap and rotor got new plug wires cleaned my throttle body and put on a new crankshaft positioning sensor (other one touched the exuast and fried) and its still not running right. it still has a hesitation and skips a when accelerating and backfires every once in a while while accelerating.
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change your plugs and run a bottle of lucas fuel injector cleaner in your tank. cost you $20 and it def wont hurt anything...
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well i changed the plugs a month or less ago and i am going to get some of that as soon as i have a chance. i put some in like right before D-town too.
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what kind of plugs?
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idk i ll have to check i forgot exactl what they are but they were sorta cheap... ill go look though later today
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if you have the 4.0L you should run champion truck plugs gaped to .035". that is what the distributer-ed 4.0L was designed around. anything else will make it run like crap. it is imperative that you gap your plugs before you put them in. check the firing order of the wires b/c you may have mixed a couple of wires up and that would def cause some problems.
I know when i had a distributer-ed 4.0L in my old cherokee, I put some bosch platinum plugs in there and it ran OK for about 2 weeks. then it started skipping and missin and runnin like crap. changed out to champions and it ran like a champ till the day she died.
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if you have the 4.0L you should run champion truck plugs gaped to .035". that is what the distributer-ed 4.0L was designed around. anything else will make it run like crap.
Got a part number? I'll give them a try.
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PN438 at Autozone for my XJ.
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mine was said to gap .030 and i will definately go get some champions hopefully today i got a big rugby match today up at life University.so maybe tomorrow.
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if you have the 4.0L you should run champion truck plugs gaped to .035". that is what the distributer-ed 4.0L was designed around. anything else will make it run like crap. it is imperative that you gap your plugs before you put them in. check the firing order of the wires b/c you may have mixed a couple of wires up and that would def cause some problems.
I know when i had a distributer-ed 4.0L in my old cherokee, I put some bosch platinum plugs in there and it ran OK for about 2 weeks. then it started skipping and missin and runnin like crap. changed out to champions and it ran like a champ till the day she died.
Why did you have to tell me that, where did you get this info? I have been a Champion Hater for years. If your info is good I will give them a try though.
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After reading this post I have to say I love my Jeep... no distributor. ;D
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After reading this post I have to say I love my Jeep... no distributor. ;D
Not to jinx you, but coil packs die too!
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After reading this post I have to say I love my Jeep... no distributor. ;D
Not to jinx you, but coil packs die too!
yeah, and jeep didnt use coil packs...they used a coil rail that has the 2 coil packs molded into one rail. so if one goes you are out $225 to replace it. ask me how i know.
Why did you have to tell me that, where did you get this info? I have been a Champion Hater for years. If your info is good I will give them a try though.
mark, the 4.0L was designed on champion truck plugs. thats what came in them from the factory until they switched to the distributor-less ignition (in 2000 i think). then they started running ngk plugs from the factory. the best plugs to run in the newer distributer-less ignition are the autolite app985. they have a platinum tip and electrode. single platinum plugs (with only the tip being platinum) will make the distributor-less ignition 4.0L run like shit (and vice-versa). ask me how i know.
mine was said to gap .030 and i will definately go get some champions hopefully today i got a big rugby match today up at life University.so maybe tomorrow.
sorry matt, yeah, the gap for the distributer-ed 4.0L is .030" but for the newer ones its .035". I forgot. hope this helped.