Georgia Trail Riders Forum
MEMBERS DISCUSSION AREA => General Discussion => Topic started by: Krawler00 on August 26, 2011, 10:17:57 PM
-
Alright, since I am getting some new axles my steering box is already shaking thinking about it. I want to replace my factory power steering box but not sure what the best option is. I would like to do a hydro setup but still want the drivability. I have heard of the durango swap but not sure if it would be worth it. My box already whines and fights me so need to get it handled before I go bigger in tires. I think doug did a PSC swap but it was very touchy. Just looking for the best deal for best price.
-
Check out Redneck Ram. You send them you gear box and they set it up. It works good with 37's and since it is just a ram assist it's not bad on the street. And it's only $499.
-
Sounds good. Will check it out. I seriously doubt I will go bigger than 37's. Thanks Chuck. Is this what you run?
-
I've seen the redneck ram and it works good. Just ship them ur box, they tap it for assist and send you a ram and hoses to get it done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Red Neck Rams is what Livingston and I installed in G's JK. All parts delivered ready to install. Ask G what he thinks about it.
-
I don't run it but was looking at it hard. There's a couple of guys up here running them with no issues.
-
Damn you asked this like a day late, there was a psc box and ram for $150 on southern jeeps.
-
Same as what I did to mine except I dealt with P S C.
Sent them my new box, they drilled it and sent back the box, brackets, ram, and make up hoses.
I replaced the hoses with custom machine crimped Gates hoses.
They can also rebuild your box when they drill it. So can Redneck.
We finally figured out why mine was so touchy and it had nothing to do with the P S C.
It is nice to turn with 1 finger when aired down, but it will drive different on the screen.
-
You can drill and tap a box yourself and save $$.
-
I'm not up to speed on the hydro type steering systems.
What makes them poor on the road?
-
I'm not up to speed on the hydro type steering systems.
What makes them poor on the road?
You don't want full hydro on the street because they rely on the engine to operate. If you engine dies, you have no steering.
As for hydro-assist, you just want a set up that won't slow down your normal steering.
And Ben, I'm not sure if it works for TJ's but a J20 box is a pretty popular swap. Adds a fourth mounting bolt and is stronger.
-
Its kicks ass! Cheaper than PSC stuff...Mike and Mark did a great job! Worth every pennie!
-
Well, Mike, Mark, you might have another Jeep to do then! Hope to have a little extra cash after the axles go in to do this. It is way overdue! My box hates me! Richard, does that swap give more power to turn bigger tires or is it just a stronger box. Right now I fight with mine on just 33's! So I know the box is just about shot anyway.
From the phone
-
Randy, what are you running in yours? When I drove it at RR it was real nice.
From the phone
-
Yo yo.. Dont drag me in this one..I havent post in here until now {no} :D
-
I'm not up to speed on the hydro type steering systems.
What makes them poor on the road?
You don't want full hydro on the street because they rely on the engine to operate. If you engine dies, you have no steering.
That depends on the orbital valve you have.
-
I'm not up to speed on the hydro type steering systems.
What makes them poor on the road?
You don't want full hydro on the street because they rely on the engine to operate. If you engine dies, you have no steering.
That depends on the orbital valve you have.
Larry is right, I can move mine just not much because I'm a wimp, but a slower (less cu. in.) valve is easier to move.
-
Ok, that makes sense. I just know that is the big reason most people avoid it on street driven rigs.
-
{popcorn}
-
Ok, that makes sense. I just know that is the big reason most people avoid it on street driven rigs.
The big thing I've always read is usually the systems that are reactive at slower RPMs, become twitchy at higher RPMs on the road.
-
Looks like I've been reading/paying attention to the wrong stuff.
-
For the guys that have driven with full hydro on the street, I was wondering about how the vehicle tracks going down the road.
From driving fork lifts and tractors with hydro steering I feel like the wheel is always gonna stay where you leave it. For example, when you're coming around a corner with standard power steering and you let go of the steering wheel, the tires will turn back straight because that's the least resistance on the system. I feel like it would be pretty sketchy to drive for that reason, and I think Mark mentioned something about it after he got his stuff mounted up and drove it a bit.
Are there ways to get around that which lets the ram collapse without hydraulic power behind it?
Does hydro-assist mess with the tracking at all?
-
The orbital has to be a return to center in order for the steering not stay "stuck" The way I look at it is the guys running 100+ mph in the desert arent crashing from it. So there has to be a way to have a stable hydro steering set up. Logan is right with the engine rpm increase the pump puts out more causing more pressure and less force to turn the wheels. And so is Mark the higher number orbital decreases the steering wheel turn ratio, making the steering quicker. I went a different route on my orbital and will see where it puts me.
I would assume hydro assist will do the same because its pretty much adding extra power to the tie rod.
-
Also a big plus a lot of people with hydro assist list, is that there is still a mechanical linkage from the steering wheel to the knuckles (system redundancy).
I've done a lot of reading on hydro vs assist and am still undecided on which way I'm going to go.
Ultimately though you still hear similar complaints to hydro assist that most have to full hydro. Too slow, Too fast, twitchy at speed, etc...
It's all about properly sizing your ram, pump, and steering box/orbital.
-
You can get a full hydro system that will be fine on the road but your going to pay dearly for it. I've driven mine on the road one time and it will probably be the last time. There is way to many steering rotations just to come in and out of curves.
-
Logan I feel you on making up your mind. I was in that same boat about 2 months ago. Also one thing to consider is failure points. With full hydro not as many as hydro assist. Also in my shoes not like im gonna be dding a truck on 40s. I will see less than 500 miles a month.
-
The big thing I've always read is usually the systems that are reactive at slower RPMs, become twitchy at higher RPMs on the road.
You can change out the high pressure port so that the pressure will not spike. I paid $15 for the port.
-
Larry I forgot to type that.. I remember us talking at Harlan about that.
-
This got complicated! I think the redneck setup is the way I will go. If G says it's good, then I trust him.
From the phone
-
I had to drive mine (full hydro) on the road a good bit out at Moab. All I can say is it was quite nerve-racking.
-
I had to drive mine (full hydro) on the road a good bit out at Moab. All I can say is it was quite nerve-racking.
Mine is spooky also Calvin, 2 turns lock to lock, but it will self center just like regular steering, even at trail speeds.
-
Just like Micheal was saying you can get a system that is invisible on the road and amazing offroad, but you have to put up the cash. I have a PSC kit on my TJ w/ 40" Treps + D60 + Detroit + Drive Flanges. I get it up to 70 mph on the road around town, city streets, hwy no problem. Offroad no problems using my tire a pivot point either.
But, to answer the original question I have a PSC Durango steering box and pump on one of my other Jeeps and it does great on the street and trail with either set of tires/wheels I run. 36" Iroks on TR beadlocks or 35" BFG MTs on Alloys
-
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/HydroAssistTap/index.html