Jk TC bushing cluster

[tcdawg]

Pretty sure the jeep engineers really did mean Just Kidding when they named our wrangler the Jk. Most of us know, and if you don't you will, that the plastic bushings that hold the TC cable to the shifter and the transfer case itself are pure crap. They will become brittle and then break, usually in a very inopportune spot. 

Yes, the plastic bushing is a $ .59 part and it works just like a cheap ass part should, crappy.  If you don't carry one with you in your tool bag you are begging for it.

Advanced Adapters makes a complete cable replacement but it's $199 and a pain to install. There is really nothing wrong w the stock cable, just the POS bushing.

I have had a bushing break on me twice and with this cold weather it has me thinking I need to deal w this issue sooner rather than later...when I am trying to get somewhere and my junk is stuck in neutral or some crap like that.

So.  Who has made a more permanent fix for these bushings?

[tcdawg]

This shows the BS little plastic pieces.

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Notice at the end of the video he mentions that some replace the plastic piece w a brass bushing but he doesn't want to do that because you may "grind the gears". I don't but that for a second.  I want a permanent fix for this, I know how to shift my transfer case. 

I'm leaning toward this fix

http://www.jeepasylum.com/content.php?70-JK-transfer-case-bushing-fix


And a preemptive STFU for an TJ/LJ/CJ guys.

[clark123456]

What about making replacement of the part with the $0.59 part a yearly (or whatever) activity, as part of regular maintenance? 

Of course, you could just get a TJ and have a permanent fix  

[Mortalis5509]

What about a brass bushing or Teflon?

[94xjsport94]

I wouldn't credit that video much, he sounds like a super newb.


A brass or bronze bushing should work in that application, I don't see much of a potential for enough wear to warrant any worry.

What about eliminating the cable and using a direct linkage set up with some Rod ends and all thread?

[clark123456]

If any of that cable end is threaded, you can likely but a heim joint that can be threaded on to it.  Heim joints are what AA uses on their cable assemblies for the lever connections.

And then hold it in place with a washer and pressure clip.  I would probably drill through the connector pin and use a hitch pin or cotter pin so there was much less chance of it coming off.

- Torg

[tcdawg]

I wouldn't credit that video much, he sounds like a super newb.


A brass or bronze bushing should work in that application, I don't see much of a potential for enough wear to warrant any worry.

What about eliminating the cable and using a direct linkage set up with some Rod ends and all thread?

The video was just to show the plastic bushing, it had a real good shot of it.

Brass bushing will work.

Have not seen a direct link, the issue is most likely the what it would have to route through the tub.

[tcdawg]

If any of that cable end is threaded, you can likely but a heim joint that can be threaded on to it.  Heim joints are what AA uses on their cable assemblies for the lever connections.

And then hold it in place with a washer and pressure clip.  I would probably drill through the connector pin and use a hitch pin or cotter pin so there was much less chance of it coming off.

- Torg

it is not threaded if I remember correctly.

I am leaning toward a brass bushing, drill through and use a hitch pin to keep it on forever.

[tcdawg]

Here is my plan, as soon as it gets back above 50 freaking degrees outside:

use this for the bushing:


Use this for the locking pin:


Like this:

[DOUG]

Is NOT threaded. 

The bushing just holds the cable end in by filling the gap between the lever and the cable end. 

The bushing It fits over the cable end and the assembly snaps into the hole.  When the bushing becomes brittle and crumbles, the assembly falls apart.

I am not understanding how this works, where the pin graps and what holds the other end in.

[tcdawg]

What about making replacement of the part with the $0.59 part a yearly (or whatever) activity, as part of regular maintenance? 

I want to make this a permanent fix.  You could replace the plastic bushing every year as routine maintenance but I think you could just as easily replace it one time with something that won't break.  Plus, you never no when the things will break.

Of course, you could just get a TJ and have a permanent fix  

TJ's have their own shifter issues as I remember

[DOUG]

Is the flanged end pushed in from the back, and the cotter pin is on the smooth end and just holding by compression?  No way I would trust that.