Craigslist/Good Deal Thread

[BigMike]

If I could sell my '14JKR for what I think its worth, and not what the market thinks its worth, I'd pay but that white TJ and buy a tow rig as my DD.  F250 4x4 Diesel.

FIFY

What's the going rate on ROI for mods? 50% 40% 30% 0%?

The problem with selling a molded Jeep is that too many don't have cash for the newer Jeeps.


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I figure 50-60% of the cost of the parts... not much if anything for the labor.  Yours is new enough that someone could get a bank loan on it, right?

Yep, it's a 14.  I had it for sale earlier in the year for $38k obo.  That was KBB plus $5k (it has $11k in upgrades without labor).  Couldn't get a nibble.  Bank won't loan more than NADA Retail.  So people would have to come out of pocket for the rest. 

I'm keeping it now.  Going to add another $4k and do Artec Trusses front and rear, Poly Ball Joints, River Raider Gas Tank Skid (to complete the RR skid system), and Metal Cloak Full Overline Fender, Side & Corner Armor System.  Then in 2018 I'm planning to do UD60's & 37's.

[clark123456]

If I could sell my '14JKR for what I think its worth, and not what the market thinks its worth, I'd pay but that white TJ and buy a tow rig as my DD.  F250 4x4 Diesel.

FIFY

What's the going rate on ROI for mods? 50% 40% 30% 0%?

The problem with selling a molded Jeep is that too many don't have cash for the newer Jeeps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I figure 50-60% of the cost of the parts... not much if anything for the labor.  Yours is new enough that someone could get a bank loan on it, right?

Yep, it's a 14.  I had it for sale earlier in the year for $38k obo.  That was KBB plus $5k (it has $11k in upgrades without labor).  Couldn't get a nibble.  Bank won't loan more than NADA Retail.  So people would have to come out of pocket for the rest. 

I'm keeping it now.  Going to add another $4k and do Artec Trusses front and rear, Poly Ball Joints, River Raider Gas Tank Skid (to complete the RR skid system), and Metal Cloak Full Overline Fender, Side & Corner Armor System.  Then in 2018 I'm planning to do UD60's & 37's.

UD60s and 37 won't mix well.  My 38s still drag over everything...not as bad as 8.8 with 35s, but it's noticeable.

[jd30005]

IMO, for 37's I would go Dynatrac PR60's.  Best ground clearance in the industry...

[Mortalis5509]

IMO, for 37's I would go Dynatrac PR60's.  Best ground clearance in the industry...

Let's fix that.

I would go fab housing for the best clearance, strength, and weight difference.

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[Mortalis5509]

If I could sell my '14JKR for what I think its worth, and not what the market thinks its worth, I'd pay but that white TJ and buy a tow rig as my DD.  F250 4x4 Diesel.

FIFY

What's the going rate on ROI for mods? 50% 40% 30% 0%?

The problem with selling a molded Jeep is that too many don't have cash for the newer Jeeps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I figure 50-60% of the cost of the parts... not much if anything for the labor.  Yours is new enough that someone could get a bank loan on it, right?

Yep, it's a 14.  I had it for sale earlier in the year for $38k obo.  That was KBB plus $5k (it has $11k in upgrades without labor).  Couldn't get a nibble.  Bank won't loan more than NADA Retail.  So people would have to come out of pocket for the rest. 

I'm keeping it now.  Going to add another $4k and do Artec Trusses front and rear, Poly Ball Joints, River Raider Gas Tank Skid (to complete the RR skid system), and Metal Cloak Full Overline Fender, Side & Corner Armor System.  Then in 2018 I'm planning to do UD60's & 37's.

The deeper you get into them the harder they are to sale. Body damage does and will occur. Solid idea, but know it's a sunk cost. Nothing for labor and 50% on a good day for parts. 

Ever post it on pirate and Facebook groups? I'm sure you would get something then.

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[DOUG]

IMO, for 37's I would go Dynatrac PR60's.  Best ground clearance in the industry...

Long time argument between companies. Dynas are fine axles if not the best hands down. I am with Currie that they have the highest clearance, measured to the lowest point. Somebody ought to have done the comparison somewhere.

Dynatrac says
 Most ground clearance of any housing that uses an 8.5” diameter or larger ring gear

Currie says
The RockJock® III high pinion frontend assembly for the 2007 and up Jeep JK includes the complete housing featuring the 65-45-12 ductile iron housing center (highest ground clearance 60 on the market), AR400 heat treated bottom skid plate allowing the axle to slide over rocks easily, 3" d.o.m. x .3125" wall steel tubes, 1 ton inner knuckles, 5/16" thick heavy steel diff cover, yoke (1310/1330/1350 optional), and all new heavy duty Currie Jeep JK suspension brackets mounted. Upper control arm brackets are equipped with Johnny Joint® rod ends for maximum articulation. Axles shafts are the Currie performance 4340 35 spline inner and outer with Spicer 1480 u-joints. Outer assemblies include 1 ton outer knuckles featuring Currie "high steer" steering arm and ball joints installed, Currie exclusive 1 ton unit bearings with 5 on 5 1/2" wheel bolt pattern, 1/2" thread wheel studs and JK tone rings installed allowing for ABS and ESP retention, 13" vented rotors (over 1" greater diameter than stock for increased braking), zinc plated caliper brackets that allow the use of the stock JK front calipers, Currie drive flanges or premium manual locking hubs, and our heavy duty 1 3/8" o.d. 4130 chrome moly tie rod with tie rod ends.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/JK-RJIIIF

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[DOUG]

IMO, for 37's I would go Dynatrac PR60's.  Best ground clearance in the industry...

Let's fix that.

I would go fab housing for the best clearance, strength, and weight difference.

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Was it broke?

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[DOUG]

Long time argument between companies.

Found it straight from Dynatrac and it explains why the RockJock wins when measuring.  Dynatrac looks at all of the area before the centerline.

1.Ground Clearance – The ProRock has absolutely the most ground clearance of any Dana 60 housing. We have a US Pat.Pend. on its design. In terms of reducing the area that is below axle centerline, the ProRock60 has the most ground clearance.

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[Mortalis5509]

IMO, for 37's I would go Dynatrac PR60's.  Best ground clearance in the industry...

Let's fix that.

I would go fab housing for the best clearance, strength, and weight difference.

and add weeks/months of aggravation and labor costs to build something that doesn't exist for a JK's ABS. 

The only downside to Dynatrac is cost and that is eased by buying used.

I'm going to disagree. You can literally run any inner and outer c combination on the housing. Any mounting put can be glued on. The tone ring can be added. So I fail to see your logic. You can glue on the factory knuckles if you so desire. Run currie knuckles that are set up for it. On and on.

I'm betting it's almost easier because you can have literally any accessory and put the axle where they need to be. I'm referring to Doug situation. You can have them wide or narrow. They can fit between trailers per the cut of the axle.

IMO, for 37's I would go Dynatrac PR60's.  Best ground clearance in the industry...

Let's fix that.

I would go fab housing for the best clearance, strength, and weight difference.

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Was it broke?

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Just a matter of opinion like most anything on here.



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[DOUG]

]
I'm going to disagree. You can literally run any inner and outer c combination on the housing. Any mounting put can be glued on. The tone ring can be added. So I fail to see your logic. You can glue on the factory knuckles if you so desire. Run currie knuckles that are set up for it. On and on.

I'm betting it's almost easier because you can have literally any accessory and put the axle where they need to be. I'm referring to Doug situation. You can have them wide or narrow. They can fit between trailers per the cut of the axle.

Your talking custom axles.  Great if you have a shop and provide the labor, but the price of having them built professionally that way is exorbitant.

We're talking assembly line cookie cutter axles that are affordable, well relatively speaking.

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[Anvilsam]

If I could sell my '14JKR for what I think its worth, and not what the market thinks its worth, I'd pay but that white TJ and buy a tow rig as my DD.  F250 4x4 Diesel.

FIFY

What's the going rate on ROI for mods? 50% 40% 30% 0%?

The problem with selling a molded Jeep is that too many don't have cash for the newer Jeeps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I figure 50-60% of the cost of the parts... not much if anything for the labor.  Yours is new enough that someone could get a bank loan on it, right?

Yep, it's a 14.  I had it for sale earlier in the year for $38k obo.  That was KBB plus $5k (it has $11k in upgrades without labor).  Couldn't get a nibble.  Bank won't loan more than NADA Retail.  So people would have to come out of pocket for the rest. 

I'm keeping it now.  Going to add another $4k and do Artec Trusses front and rear, Poly Ball Joints, River Raider Gas Tank Skid (to complete the RR skid system), and Metal Cloak Full Overline Fender, Side & Corner Armor System.  Then in 2018 I'm planning to do UD60's & 37's.

UD60s and 37 won't mix well.  My 38s still drag over everything...not as bad as 8.8 with 35s, but it's noticeable.

I would be willing to bet it's the driver more than anything


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[Mortalis5509]

]
I'm going to disagree. You can literally run any inner and outer c combination on the housing. Any mounting put can be glued on. The tone ring can be added. So I fail to see your logic. You can glue on the factory knuckles if you so desire. Run currie knuckles that are set up for it. On and on.

I'm betting it's almost easier because you can have literally any accessory and put the axle where they need to be. I'm referring to Doug situation. You can have them wide or narrow. They can fit between trailers per the cut of the axle.

Your talking custom axles.  Great if you have a shop and provide the labor, but the price of having them built professionally that way is exorbitant.

We're talking assembly line cookie cutter axles that are affordable, well relatively speaking.

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What's the Dynatrac retail price and what does it come with to bolt it in?

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