Georgia Trail Riders Forum
CLASSIFIEDS => Wanted => Topic started by: kent10sne1 on November 12, 2012, 09:37:45 AM
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So im looking at starting to put together lifting? trying to figure out all i want/need etc.. trying to figure cost. etc..
saw this Rough Country http://www.toms4x4superstore.com/products/2007-%252d-2012-4wd-Jeep-JK-3.25%22-Suspension-2-Door.html (http://www.toms4x4superstore.com/products/2007-%252d-2012-4wd-Jeep-JK-3.25%22-Suspension-2-Door.html) for about 400. i guess i would have to add the stearing
stablizer and JK quick disconnects. just wish i was more skilled at installation. lol.. trying to see if i can get the cost down some more..
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Still need to address the front track bar and a new tie rod for 35's. Personally, I would go with 2.5" lift, trim the rear pinch seam and with your cut flares you will have plenty of room for 35's. Keep it low, dont let them tall guys get you. I have 2" of lift and 35's and I go almost anywhere I want. The underside of your jeep is flat, mine is not and I have a 103" wheelbase and you have a 95" wheelbase so your Jeep would be even better.
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this looks promising, a bit Pricey but.. http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-18415-50-ORV-2-5/dp/B003E7RCM0/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1352733029&sr=8-32&keywords=Jeep+JK+2012+lift (http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-18415-50-ORV-2-5/dp/B003E7RCM0/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1352733029&sr=8-32&keywords=Jeep+JK+2012+lift)
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I will say this... the one place you dont want to cheap out on your Jeep that is also your DD is your suspension. A rough riding Jeep is fine when it never rides but being a DD sucks. Heck you could spend $400 on just decent shocks! Anyone who says "its a jeep thing" is retarded and has never been in a jeep that was properly set up. Mike L's Rubicon felt like you were riding in a Cadillac with his 4"+ of lift and 37's
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I do agree if it is set up right it will ride and handle better than stock.
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The absolute best riding kit (on road) is the AEV 2.5 suspension w/Bilstien 5100 shocks:
http://www.aev-conversions.com/shop/shop-by-category/suspension/jk-dualsport-xt-suspension-2-5.html
http://www.aev-conversions.com/shop/shop-by-category/suspension/jk-geometry-correction-brackets-frt.html
If you do the Rough Country lift just make sure you replace the shock with a set of 2.0 Fox Shox! This is one of my favorite kits because you get the most for your money + a lifetime warranty!
2.5 kit with no shocks:
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk_2-coils.html
Shox:
http://www.foxracingshox.com/product.php?m=offroad&t=shocks&p=3383&ref=filter
discos:
http://www.roughcountry.com/swaybar-disconnects_1029.php
Control arms:
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk_xflex-control-arms.html
Front track bar:
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xtras_1168.html
Stabilizer:
http://www.roughcountry.com/steering-stabilizer_87306.php
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After building one a piece at a time and redoing almost everything and probably spending 3x the $, I am a big believer of doing it right the first time.
JK's don't require as much lift to run 35's or 37's by trimming or replacing your fenders, and you have trimmed, so you can easily run 2.5" and run 37's like me or 35's. Your belly won't drag near as much with the shorter wheelbase of the 2 door.
I recommend Rock Krawler. A ton of guys on here have them and installed them and you watched them Friday and Saturday.
The arms are SOLID and not hollow, and have a lifetime guarantee on all hard parts.
One of these for starters, and they are both upgradable.
JK 2.5 FLEX SYSTEM
http://rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=107
JK 2.5 MAX TRAVEL SYSTEM
http://rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=339
Ideally build up to this but in 2.5":.
JK 3.5 X FACTOR SYSTEM
http://rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=108
Bilsteins are too firm for me.
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RK is the way to go. There stuff is top notch. Keep it low and trim. Nothing over 4".
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I run the Fox 2.0 shocks and love them.
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Keep it low, dont let them tall guys get you.
Come on Kent, your wife would love it if you did something like this. </LMAO/>
(http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4965/imagescatlgtq0.jpg)
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Lol
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Kent, I still have the 3.5" RE lift w/ shocks that came off my 4-door. The kit was purchased from Fortec and installed by Ed Voyles (they sell a lot of those Fortec kits). Everything is in a box in my basement if you're interested. Check out this link http://www.gatrailriders.com/GTRForums/index.php?topic=9549.0 The wheels and tires are sold, but the lift is still available.
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I wonder if the 4 door stuff would fit my 2 door? anyone? if so, i think we can work it out. just need to come up with the cash.. I do also need to measure to make sure it would fit. still on my 33's.
as i prob. wont move to 35's because of $$ and im still on 3.21 gears.
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Yes it will fit. It may sit higher on a 2 door. Also being a 2 door depending on how high you go you will need to change drive shafts but that is a good change for wheeling anyway. Factory DS are horrible
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I'm sure it will fit but it will probably be too tall for your needs. I forgot you're in a 2 door, sorry.
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Yes it will fit. It may sit higher on a 2 door. Also being a 2 door depending on how high you go you will need to change drive shafts but that is a good change for wheeling anyway. Factory DS are horrible
Ok, now i got to change my DS.. damit. i cant catch a break. thinking im saving on a lift, now i got to buy a shaft. geeeeeshhhhhh WTF
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I'm sure it will fit but it will probably be too tall for your needs. I forgot you're in a 2 door, sorry.
no worries. thanks for the offer. its a great deal...
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Jeeps are famous for that. You have to buy a part to make the part you bought work.
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My advice start looking a pictures of 2 doors that you like the way they sit and start building from that. If your not happy with the look and the performance it's wasted money because you will tear it apart and rebuild it until your happy
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My advice start looking a pictures of 2 doors that you like the way they sit and start building from that. If your not happy with the look and the performance it's wasted money because you will tear it apart and rebuild it until your happy
Wait... I'm supposed to like the way it looks too?
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Screw all that. If you want to keep it simple and be plenty capable Keep your 33's, lock the front, skid plate the oil pan and ride it like that. Dont get caught up on lift and tires and all that jazz right now. It cost a lot and you will spend your months/years waiting and wanting the next part to make it just a little better or "complete" a step. When I had a stock 4 door Rubicon those lockers changed the world and I was just on the stock 32's. Even i sometimes wish I would have slowed down with my LJ and done things different but I have done drilled and chopped the body and it will be forever what it is now.
I can speak from exp and many guys here will second... Once you get the lift you will want 35's, period. THem 33's will look goofy. So you get 35's and now you need gears because the 3.21 will be crazy so now thats another 1300. Then with 35's you need to address steering issues so a few hundred there. And then you will stand want a locker but with the weight of 35's now you probably should look at axle shafts... All of this doesnt take into accound with the lift getting drive shaft and maybe better shocks, ect.
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lol you guys.. thats why i put advise.
personally, i dont really care how stiff it is on the road, i like my 33's , but the bouncing scares me, i dont mind rubbing some, as why i want to protect some of the parts under..
if i do the lift, it wont be over 3 i think and i am thinking if a stearingstablizer would be good to get now, if i dont plan on a lift anytime soon. seems i heard lots of good things on the SS
this past weekend....
lots of good advice here, keep it coming, i need lots of input.
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On the steering stabilizer. Biggest problem is on the JK it hangs under your tie rod. Get the relocation bracket and raise it above. Problem solved
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On the steering stabilizer. Biggest problem is on the JK it hangs under your tie rod. Get the relocation bracket and raise it above. Problem solved
Ya, David told me this Sunday driving home. great advice.
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On the steering stabilizer. Biggest problem is on the JK it hangs under your tie rod. Get the relocation bracket and raise it above. Problem solved
Yeah, that's where mine sits (above the tie rod) and I had no issues what so ever.
Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
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Steering stabilizers... who needs 'em. I don't ;D As Jerm stated, keep it simple. Start slow and research, research, research and wheel it, then figure out what you want. Bobby hit it right about the parts. You lift it, then you have to do this, then this. It took me nearly 5 years to get my Jeep to where it is now and I still want more ::) Never ends!
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Screw all that. If you want to keep it simple and be plenty capable Keep your 33's, lock the front, skid plate the oil pan and ride it like that. Dont get caught up on lift and tires and all that jazz right now. It cost a lot and you will spend your months/years waiting and wanting the next part to make it just a little better or "complete" a step. When I had a stock 4 door Rubicon those lockers changed the world and I was just on the stock 32's. Even i sometimes wish I would have slowed down with my LJ and done things different but I have done drilled and chopped the body and it will be forever what it is now.
I can speak from exp and many guys here will second... Once you get the lift you will want 35's, period. THem 33's will look goofy. So you get 35's and now you need gears because the 3.21 will be crazy so now thats another 1300. Then with 35's you need to address steering issues so a few hundred there. And then you will stand want a locker but with the weight of 35's now you probably should look at axle shafts... All of this doesnt take into accound with the lift getting drive shaft and maybe better shocks, ect.
so, lock the front with something cheap like lunchbox lockers.. skid the oil pan. what about the stearing stablizer, (relocation on top of bar kit) would this make it handle better offroading?
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Not gonna make any difference in handling. Just keeps it higher and out of the rocks. I definitely recommend some good skid plates. I still need to get an oil pan skid. Gulches almost got me last trip {no}
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I'll second BigJerm's advice - locker(s) and skids first. Hold off the lift until you've wheeled a bit more.
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Ok, well, i guess thats what I will do then. keep wheeling, gain a better understanding of lines, which i think i am getting better, I seem to be taking or understanding lines better and how my rig flexes.
I am also trying to listen to the spotters better, I find that a good spotter is worth more than all the lockers/lifts etc. and our club has some great ones. had that little hick-up on that last hard trail , only
took a small push to get me off that rock, and then a good.. Kirk style bump and i was up and on to the nxt section..
control arm protectors are pretty cheap, and something i can do, anyone have any good ideas on what under body armor i should get 1st. Diff? Oil/tran? their are alot of things i can/need to protect...
on the lockers. atm, i would only be able to afford the cheap auto/lunchbox front? but at least thats a start. and i have no idea what my diff is, 30,40? anyone know what the JK 2012 Wrangler Sport comes with.. i do know im at 3.21 gears.. yea yea. it sucks, but thats another discussion, im sticking with 33's for a while and no plans to pull anything... //OLDSKOOL//
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You have a Dana 30 and your gears are 3:21
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so would it be worth upgrading to 44 ? i think it says i have 30 front and 44 rear on the sport? not sure, i have seen posts of ppl saying that the 30 is not strong and running 33's are larger can put
too much strain on them and they can break? WTF
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Unless ur got a tow package then u have 3.73 just look at ur window sticker I have 3.73 in mine and with the RE lift u would be sitting at four inches bobby I will shoot u a text soon man
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well , crap.. WTF
now im thinking i need to make sure my diff/axel is sufficient to handle what im doing, i dont want to snap anything . :'( this just keeps getting worse... is should have {rtft} the sticker better
and made them upgrade it at the dealer... :bs)
I need to step back and try and get my mind around this. ... the axel/diff gears ,.. geshhhh.. what i get for rushing into this... so should i look at making sure my gears/diff's/axels are a bit more
beefy first..? i dont want to snap anything.. someone shoot me now!
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Man, I feel your pain. I started with a 2012 sport, and adding the lockers/axles seemed so daunting I traded it for a 2013 rubi. Now I am starting the list of upgrades I want and the price tag is sitting at $too damn much! I've decided to start with the 4wd shifter linkage cable (found an upgrade to replace the stock cable with the plastic bushings) and a winch mounted to my stock front bumper. I figure those two upgrades will get me out of most self inflicted issues. I'll probably move next to skids, so I am eagerly watching the answers to your question above. Then the big $$$s start. I'll be watching your posts, you are asking a lot of the same questions I have. If I find any enlightenment I'll pass it along!
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I think we all feel your pain. I planned on getting gears then ended up with an axle, locker, shafts, front DS, and finally gears...
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You should be fine. The biggest thing in my opinion in off roading is to make anything you buy last is crawl , smooth. The skinny pedal is what breaks stuff. I am running and modified Dana 30 with 35" tires and I am not worried one bit. You can get C gussets, truss and chromo axles if you want. I would for sure say C Gussets. They cost like $80 plus welding. Just take your time and enjoy the build. I paced my self and buy little things each month
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You should be fine. The biggest thing in my opinion in off tossing to make anything you buy last is crawl , smooth. The skinny pedal is what breaks stuff. I am running and modified Dana 30 with 35" tires and I am not worried one bit. You can get C gussets, truss and chromo axles if you want. I would for sure say C Gussets. They cost like $80 plus welding. Just take your time and enjoy the build. I paced my self and buy little things each month
Ok, thanks. "C gussets" i need to google that.. see what the "Plus welding" cost is.. but thanks for the info.. i was thinking lift, but now that may not happen till late nxt year unless i run across something cheap...
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Call Allsouth. I know Danny can get Artec, maybe pure Jeep and there are several other brands
Poly Performance
EVO
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/13/da7usu8y.jpg)
Here is Artec Truss
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well , crap.. WTF
now im thinking i need to make sure my diff/axel is sufficient to handle what im doing, i dont want to snap anything . :'( this just keeps getting worse... is should have {rtft} the sticker better
and made them upgrade it at the dealer... :bs)
I need to step back and try and get my mind around this. ... the axel/diff gears ,.. geshhhh.. what i get for rushing into this... so should i look at making sure my gears/diff's/axels are a bit more
beefy first..? i dont want to snap anything.. someone shoot me now!
Relax. This is good reason why you dont need to buy any mods, you don't really know your own Jeep. Its not a bag thing... I didnt know jack crap my first Jeep either but you learn. Relax. Here is the thing about reading all these forums. Everyone has a story, everyone knows someones brother mother cousin who broke a D30 on 33's and who never broke a D35 (1 of the weakest rear axles, no you dont have it, dont ask) on 35's. I have never met you but based on your post and nature of your post on the forums you are probably very timid and light on the gas pedal. As someone else said, gas breaks things. There are probably thousands of Jeeps with 35" tires on completely stock D30 front axles with 0 issues. There are also hundreds, if not a thousand or 2 of Jeeps with a D30 on 35's and have broke it because they were heavy on the gas.
It seems like you are already stuck on the bigger is better thing... lift, tires, bigger axles. Have you even maxed out the capability of your Jeep yet? Any clue how much your swap to a D44 would cost you? lol you think a $400 lift kit cost a lot...
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WELL, ya, i understand. im just taking this all in. my first run was at jeepfest, and i was amazed at what i could do, then at Gulches, even more amazed at the stuff i could climb. and now, windrock, i did some nice climbs, much more than i ever imagined. i took a bypass when i felt uncomfortable, but mostly, the spotters got me thru the hard stuff.. im not easy on the gass.. just ask the guys here, too much bonuce..bounce.. i have a standard 6speed. and it took me at gulches to learn how to handle down hills with out my ass flipping over my head.. </LMAO/> but i learned, the rangers there talked with me some on how to handle going down on a standard.
but at windrock, the last run, i got a bit nervous, i had to "kirk" bump it too much and there was alot of under...scraping and banging. which .. this is my daily driver, so im a bit on the.. timid side on not wanting to break anything too bad, i know i need to drive some more, all weekend i worked on taking diff. lines to see how my rig flexed and moved.
i do understand it better, but its hard for me to "crawel" using a standard. but i will just have to "Learn" i got no choice.
I hope i did better at windrock, not sure how the rest of the rock-jocks think i did, i would love some more advice and after a run, someone pointing out to me.. what i should have done/not done. etc.. i think i got Mud down after sat at windrock </LMAO/> anyway.. thanks , alot of my posts are just getting info, and wanting to take all the advice in and learn what do i want to spend $ on first.
im prob. going to start with some protection under.. just cause i scrape, bang a bit more than most.
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A lift doesn't give you more clearance, just more room to flex the axle. More flex lets you handle obstacles while being less off-camber in the tub. This is good for offroading.
On the minus side, a lift can make on-road performance less good. Steering, pinion, control arm, and trackbar angles all change. That's why getting a well engineered lift is critical if you do decide to lift it.
These are some of the reasons for my suggestion to get more experience before deciding on a lift.
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A lift doesn't give you more clearance, just more room to flex the axle. More flex lets you handle obstacles while being less off-camber in the tub. This is good for offroading.
On the minus side, a lift can make on-road performance less good. Steering, pinion, control arm, and trackbar angles all change. That's why getting a well engineered lift is critical if you do decide to lift it.
These are some of the reasons for my suggestion to get more experience before deciding on a lift.
Understood Old wise one! {popcorn} im trying to do as much as i can, and learn without breaking my daily driver. hopefully im making progress..
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Hey, what's wrong with the D35?! ;D Less gas = good times. Deeper gears = easier crawling and less gas. :smoke
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A lift doesn't give you more clearance, just more room to flex the axle. More flex lets you handle obstacles while being less off-camber in the tub. This is good for offroading.
On the minus side, a lift can make on-road performance less good. Steering, pinion, control arm, and trackbar angles all change. That's why getting a well engineered lift is critical if you do decide to lift it.
These are some of the reasons for my suggestion to get more experience before deciding on a lift.
I really had few issues with being less 0ff-camber. from what i recall. issues i had on last run, .
1. being smooth with my cluch, . David told me he could tell i was working it, it smelled.. so i need to work on this.. i think sometimes im too.. jerky.. bouncey... if that makes sense.
2. wheel spin. i would get stuck, and spin the wheels. but i saw alot of ppl do this...
3. scrap/bump/bang. under . (causes lots o crap in pants).. this is what scares me the most... i know alot is how i drive. but. .....
after i went to the local spray / wash and cleaned the underbelly of the beast, i checked for dings/nicks/scrapes.. i have a wheel burn on my driver back.. :( scratched the black paint off .....
at the moment, im looking for maybe some control arm protectors and maybe something for the tranny/oil. i would guess that would something I could install pretty easy? to start. maybe i can get that before the Dec. 9th holiday ride. then look at front lockers.... i would also love to try and do a budget boost.. maybe the one with just the shocks. it seems pretty cheap, and is only a few inches... I already have the bumpstops in, but that would give me a tad more flex if needed. and the under protection would make me not feel so bad as i learn to drive and do some jerking... </LMAO/> i would have to get someone else to help me with the lockers. as thats wayyyyyyy over my paygrade...
I would love a winch, but. . only been out 3 times on my own. and im really careful. i have that Hi-Jack and straps if i need to get out, its slow, but a poor mans winch. and 99% im out with you guys, and most of you already have winches.... so thats not bothering me so much...
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WTF WTF WTF
If you are not dragging,dinging,grinding, you are
not wheeling!! Get over the noise of it and keep going.
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I would do a small BB. The springs will still be factory so it will ride the same! You will just have a little more clearance for tires and less of a chance of crushing your rocker panels.
v v $220.00 v v We can have a shop build day and I'm sure someone would help you install it ;D
(http://www.roughcountry.com/images_large/jeep_651n2.jpg)
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OR
Kit Contents: 250.00
• Front and rear polyurethane spring spacers
• Front and rear bump stop spacers
• Sway bar end links (RHD Only)
• Front and rear shock extension brackets
• Front brake line drop brackets
(http://www.aev-conversions.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/545x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/p/spacer_lhd_tbl.jpg)
(http://www.aev-conversions.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/545x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/2/-/2-inchspacer_bill_1.jpg)
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That is a nice lookin JK.
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I would do a small BB. The springs will still be factory so it will ride the same! You will just have a little more clearance for tires and less of a chance of crushing your rocker panels.
v v $220.00 v v We can have a shop build day and I'm sure someone would help you install it ;D
(http://www.roughcountry.com/images_large/jeep_651n2.jpg)
i like this suggestion